As you push your way through the crowds of tourists in Bruges, particularly on these long summer days, it's strange to think that the city was once synonymous with gloom and death. But at the end of the 19th century, that was how the city was seen by many of Europe's artists, thanks to the Belgian writer Georges Rodenbach. On the anniversary of his birth this week, join us on a journey back to the fin de siècle Capital of Melancholy