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Touring the Trappist monasteries

Westmalle

Begin your cycle tour in front of the city’s train station by taking two lefts and leaving town to the west along bike route 68. Pass the Turnhout harbour with its impressive array of private boats at anchor. Just beyond, the path breaks off to the left through a quiet alley, then crosses a small road through a residential area, eventually emerging near a pasture with sheep and goats.

Passing under the highway, the path plunges into the forest, a small chateau to the right, pines and birch lining the way. The scenery changes almost constantly on this ride. In a minute, you are out of the forest and passing rows of large, eclectic homes before again heading into the woods, with thick pines blocking out the sun.

The next change comes upon reaching the Dessel-Turnhout-Schoten canal. Turn left, following the dirt path along the south bank past several numbered drawbridges, wandering ducks and signs for cycle cafes. At bridge 5, switch to path 72, continuing along the canal through its mix of agricultural and forest scenery until the next small drawbridge and the town of Beerse.

Switching to path 71, the mix of scenery continues until the path emerges next to a bend in the river where a long-immobile houseboat floats below the first signs advertising Westmalle beer. Motley flocks of geese mob the trail, moving between the wood and the water. Cross to the north bank on the pedestrian bridge, following signs for path 85. Two million years ago, this area was the coast of the North Sea, the origin of the clays which are now mined here.

At the next crossing, return to the south side, following signs for path 84 and then 66 through more forest and then wide open farms. Crossing a large road, follow path 66 to an even larger road, eventually switching to path 50. This runs along a cobbled carriageway into the town of Westmalle, below the red brick Sint-Martins Church, by far the biggest building along the route.

Paths 50 and 51 take you through winding, suburban Westmalle. Path 62 then leads through the woods into the grounds surrounding the abbey itself, first noticeable by the rich smell, familiar to many Flemish towns, of beer in the making.

There are many interesting buildings spread over the grounds, and the path ends at a map which can help guide your visit. Most importantly: the café, offering Westmalle’s full range of beers, is to the left.

Distance: 23 kilometres

Difficulty: Moderate. Good bike paths but a long return trip (particularly if you’ve tasted the Tripel)

Time: 90 min

(March 3, 2024)

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