Obviously, I refer first and foremost to the bagel. Although the Jewish community of Antwerp provides a refuge for some, the bagel battle in Brussels is a bitter one. Most bakers’ bagel-exposure seems to have been limited to photographs. Thankfully, a few establishments are doing their homework and saving us all from our bagel-less misery.

Au Pays Des Merveilles, a cozy bagel haven and tea room in Sint-Gillis, has their bagels delivered from Amsterdam. These bagels are respectable, with ample doses of cream cheese, smoked salmon or other toppings (although why anyone would order something other than cream cheese and smoked salmon on a bagel is beyond me). It’s a popular place, and a choice destination for a leisurely Sunday morning brunch, including their fine selection of teas and coffees.

Newer still to the Brussels bagel scene is Sens in Elsene. Open only since mid-March, it is quickly developing a loyal following. Those of you looking for a solid H&H bagel with a two-inch schmear of cream cheese are going to have to look elsewhere. Sens offers up a delicious, light, locally-made bagel in four basic flavours: plain, sesame, poppy and multi-grain (as purists will note, “multigrain” is the exotic outlier in that list). Cream cheese is served in moderation – no skimping, but no 1:1 bagel-to-cream-cheese ratio either.

Perhaps most importantly, Sens serves up a pastrami that evokes sighs and eyes-rolled-heavenward from its devotees. While the supplier remains a strict secret, the pastrami (as well as some other meat) is kosher and is even attracting Jews from Antwerp. It’s hard to get higher pastrami praise than that.

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