This small restaurant was packed on a Tuesday night; we got a few of the last seats, which put us at the counter. This was far more refined that it sounded; the setting was modern and elegant, yet relaxed and informal.

For starters, we opted for specials: one, a barely-seared salmon prepared “Pazzo style” and served with sushi accompaniments; the other a sashimi of Australian Kingfish with granny smith cream and white celery in a vinaigrette.

The latter was featured on the Lady Chef menu, where Nevens was asked by the contest promoters to work with Kingfish. Not only did she work with it, she excelled. The sashimi had a light, fresh taste, complimented by tart apple. The salmon starter was equally special – seared delicately to give a slight cooked taste that did not overpower the raw salmon flavour. If this was “Pazzo style”, I knew I was in good hands.

On to mains. One dish featured a large, and gorgeous, grilled sole. Seasoned with little more than pepper, the fish was firm and flavourful. It was accompanied only by a rucola salad dotted with grapefruit and cashews and a small pot of green curry dressing, which we enjoyed both on the salad and the fish.

Pazzo also features a special truffle menu, which is difficult to resist – and why would you want to? A simple al dente tagliatelle was dressed in a cream sauce (you can also opt for olive oil) and shaved, fresh truffles. Just the right size, it was so simple and so delicious.

The truffle theme continued into dessert, with a truffle ice cream topped, again, with fresh truffles. This confirmed my belief that mushrooms + dessert is a highly underrated combination. My husband was transported; I was lucky to steal a few bites. Meanwhile, I settled in for a liquorice ice cream, topped with bits of a fig-almond paste and surrounded by pieces of pineapple and papaya. I never would have thought to combine these ingredients, but I’m glad I had the chance.

Pazzo is both a restaurant and a wine bar, and they feature an extensive and reputable wine list to compliment your meal. Our dinner clocked in at €135 for the two of us, which was money well spent for the friendly service and outstanding cuisine.

www.pazzo.be

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