Back in the US, I would occasionally think back to those Japanese meals while waiting patiently for Wagamama’s brand to expand across the ocean – naturally, now that I live in Brussels, it can indeed be found in Boston, my former home.

But fortunately, among their 37 international locations, one can be found Antwerp.

According to the website, “Wagamama” means a “wilful, naughty child” – although others contend that “selfish” may be a more accurate translation. Whatever the meaning, the chain subscribes to a simple philosophy: “to combine fresh and nutritious food in an elegant yet simple setting with helpful, friendly service and value for money.” Let’s break that down.

The food: Wagamama is based on the Japanese ramen bar. Noodle soups abound, with varying combinations of pork, chicken, tofu, fish and fresh vegetables. You’ll also find noodle dishes sans soup, as well as some rice-based options.

The dishes are prepared to order in the open kitchen.

Although many include fried ingredients, the combination with raw or lightly cooked vegetables provides a balance towards healthiness. There are also a healthy number of sweet and spicy Asian flavours abound; you can hardly go wrong here.

The setting: I wouldn’t quite describe it as “elegant”. Wagamama has a sleek, modern, almost industrial look to it. Everyone sits at long tables on benches, so you know instantly that this is not a location for a leisurely meal.

The service: Wagamama is indeed just a few steps removed from fast food. Waiters will take your order on a PDA, scribble some numbers on the paper placemat in front of you, and dishes will come out as soon as they are ready – which is why you will only see “side dishes” and not “starters” on the menu.

I did find, shall we say, “Belgian influences” in the quality of service in Antwerp, but all in all, no serious complaints. A friend with small children also assures me that the staff was very helpful, providing booster seats and being attentive to their needs – so much so that it’s a favourite spot for family outings.

A value? I’ve always felt Wagamama’s prices were well in line with their quality. But then again, I’m a little biased.

www.wagamama.be

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