The spores of the title refers to mushrooms, the feature of nearly every dish on their fairly small menu (even some of the desserts). However, this Sint-Gilles restaurant is even more specialised in wine. Their vast collection features many Mediterranean options, and every bottle they have recommended to me has been truly enjoyable alongside my meal.

But back to the menu: although you can order particular dishes, the recommended format is a tapas-style surprise menu. You let them know of any dietary restrictions or preferences, and then the food starts rolling out of the kitchen, one dish at a time.

The kitchen itself is worth a mention, as it is an open one, taking up about one-third of the already small ground floor. Every table has a view on it, and from the upstairs seating, you can get a fun aerial perspective (although watch out for these seats as it does get warm up there). Seating is also available in the wine cellar, minus the kitchen view.

Their menu is based on the mushrooms available on the market and has been different on every visit, but certain of my favourite dishes seem to be more or less permanent fixtures. One is the blondes aux herbes, blonde mushrooms cooked up with a fresh herb selection; it’s so simple and yet wonderfully elegant. Equally high on my list is the oeuf cocotte, a softcooked egg in a small cup, with cream and porcini mushrooms mixed in, spooned over bread and (in my case) gobbled up in one minute or less. Order two.

The décor goes a step farther than just the open kitchen concept; the walls, seats and tables are all dark, with sufficient – and sufficiently romantic – lighting. Very chic. The wait staff has always been friendly and helpful, yet another Brussels rarity.

With so much going for it, it can be hard to find a seat, so book ahead.

www.cafedesspores.be