The American West theme continues, from the hospitality right down to the menu. Our server, the owner Joris-Igor Houwen, was so enthusiastic and knowledgeable that I actually left my dinner choice up to him. Meat lovers like me are sure to have difficulty choosing from the more than a dozen variations of flame-grilled goodness, including marinated spare-ribs, choice cuts of steak and lamb. And for more adventurous eaters, there’s bison meat, kangaroo, ostrich, springbok and crocodile.

In the meantime, one thing everybody at our table did not hesitate to order was the carpaccio starter – paper-thin slices of the reddest beef I have ever seen, topped with a subtle mixture of olive oil, parmesan cheese slivers, peppery rocket salad and tasty bits of tomato.

Waiting for our main course was one of the highlights of the evening, as we watched them fire up the wood grill located in the centre of the dining room. Chef and grillmaster Norma Adriatico, also Joris-Igor’s wife, kept watch over the fire as it slowly seared and smoked our dinners. The smell and the sound of sizzling revved up our appetites.

Everything arrived on wooden planks adorned with a salad creation – more of a work of art – with lettuce and carrots and dressing popping out of a tomato. We all eyed one friend’s “Gringo Steak”, a serious portion of côte à l’os, criss-crossed with light grill marks. Another friend took the suggested “Fish Papillote”, a folded parcel that released a swirl of steam when opened, revealing rolled fillets of sole and salmon in a cream sauce with a scattering of grey shrimp.

A third was more than pleased with her “Lambs Chumps”, a juicy 300-gramme lamb brochette. Finally, my hearty “Texas Steak” was a nice surprise, thick and perfectly cooked, served with a side of homemade Béarnaise sauce. Enter one big bowl of fries, also made fresh, and the meal was complete.

Later on the lights dimmed and the Americana music got louder, so our party had no choice but to stay a bit longer and enjoy. We wisely decided to resist the temptation to dabble in the impressive whisky selection, opting for a round of local beers. In the end it was after midnight when we finally headed home – a sure sign of how welcome we felt.

In case you over-indulge, no worries; the restaurant is also a hotel and in the morning you can have breakfast on the bright veranda or outdoor patio with a view over the hilly landscape.

> Moriaanshoofd 27, Mullem (Oudenaarde)
> Wed-Sat from 18.00; Sun 12.00-15.00 and from 18.00
> Country grill - in the country - with a unique Wild West interior
> www.moriaanshoofd.be

Contact Bite at [email protected]