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bite - De Voet van Keizer Karel

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In this protected monument, dating back to the 15th century, a water mill ground grain for the local community until 1983. Making use of the passing stream, the Klapscheutmolen provided milled grain as food for cattle, as well as the ingredients for the neighbouring family De Troch’s brewing activities.

Brewery De Troch is still active, and its beers are on the menu at what is today the site of impeccably restored restaurant De Voet van Keizer Karel (Emperor Charles’ Foot), referring to the name given to the particular size of brick used to build the original mill.

Inside, the large space has been split up into three levels of seating and filled with wooden tables, church chairs and cross-beams. Old framed portraits on white walls, a majestic open hearth and glowing candles provide for an ultra-cosy atmosphere. Out back, the spacious terrace with its burbling water fountain give a nostalgic holiday feeling on this warm summer night.

Over two Affligem tripels, my companion and I took our time to peruse the extensive menu. All the classic snacks are there, from spaghetti and croque monsieurs to salads and steaks. But it was the list of seasonal suggestions that caught our attention, with starters including tuna carpaccio with pesto and olives, a minisalad with roasted quail and fresh raspberry dressing, zander fish and eggplant ratatouille and cucumber gazpacho.

The suggested main dishes were equally enticing: a prized cut of hanger steak with red pepper sauce and potato cubes with bacon, guineafowl filet in a tarragon sauce with a witloof-apple salad and thick, crispy potatoes, giant prawns with garlic sauce and risotto rice, or the vegetarian three-colour penne in a white truffle pesto.

My companion opted for the prawns, which were indeed giant, albeit not very numerous, and came swimming in a delicious creamy garlic sauce. My dish with guineafowl was beautifully presented and tasty, but the meat was a bit dry. Fortunately the tarragon sauce made up for the slight overcooking, and the salad was a refreshing side.

Finally, it was time for the finale: fat red cherries topped with a ball of cherry ice cream for across the table, and for myself a scoop of subtle coconut ice cream in a moat of green pistachio advocaat, a thick Flemish liqueur made from egg yolks. Placed around the edges of both dishes were sour berries and other fruits, to offset the sweetness of the desserts. This is a whole-experience kind of restaurant, a place where the history, décor and atmosphere is just as important as the honest Belgian cuisine being served.

(September 1, 2010)