Fortunately, I just discovered an exception: Zorba de Griek, established 22 years ago in Ghent. Instead of trying to be authentic through decor, chef and owner Paul Nilsson is through his food. He took over the business from his Greek father, now 83, who still drops by sometimes to play a song or two on the piano.

The setting is contemporary and comfortable; it's a nice place to escape from the often frantic neighbourhood near the city's university hospital. Zorba also does take-away (which probably pleases quite a few hospital staff).

Even though Paul practically runs the place all by himself, he remains calm and hospitable in-between his numerous trips to the kitchen. Our food and drinks arrived in no time at all. An order of meze for three people turned out to be a colourful array of various starters, including pink fish roe and tzatziki (garlic- yoghurt-cucumber) for on the bread, grape leaves stuffed with rice, fried calamari rings, thick slices of a creamy feta cheese sprinkled with oregano, a crisp salad and grilled prawns and meatballs - quite the impressive spread for a starter.

To continue with the sharing theme, we then ordered one chef's platter and a Greek salad. It was a local version of a Greek salad, with its lettuce, carrots and more, as opposed to the traditional cucumber-tomato version you find in Greece. Nonetheless, everything was extremely fresh.

We all helped ourselves to the sizeable platter piled high with an assortment of grilled meats, thankfully including more of the same delicious meatballs as in the starter, plus perfectly cooked lamb chops and skewers. Next to that was a heap of white rice livened up with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus green beans and a couple of potatoes lightly fried in olive oil.

As is the case with so many Greek restaurants in Belgium, vegetarians need not stay away from Zorba de Griek, as there are plenty of meatless options. Try giouvetsi, Greek pasta in a creamy tomato sauce or the vegetarian tas kebab, stewed Quorn and vegetables.

Finish off your culinary trip with a hot cup of muddy Greek coffee or a refreshing glass of ouzo on ice. Either way, your stomachs should be full and your wallets unbroken. Our bill came to about €22 a head, and that included more starters, sides, meat and beers than our table could put away - although we certainly did our best.

Zorba de Greek
Koolmeesstraat 33, Ghent; 09.221.64.07
Wed-Fri + Sun, 12.00-14.00 & 18.00-midnight; Sat, 18.00-midnight
Genuinely good Greek cuisine without all the drama

Contact Bite at flandersbite@gmail.com