Nobody knows this better than Mario Cattoor, chef and owner of De Vlaamsche Pot (The Flemish Pot), who opened his restaurant 26 years ago in a quiet side street near Bruges ́main square. Pointing out some old framed portraits on the wall near the entrance, he said: "These are my grandparents and great-grandparents. All the recipes come from them." Music to my ears; I was eager to get seated.

However, it appeared we were in for a long wait. The cosy ground-level was completely packed; every wooden table was filled with boisterous diners. The restaurant can hold 200 customers at a time and welcomes right around that number on a daily basis. "Follow me," Mario said. So we did; through an incredible maze of rooms and up to another level with equally snug and crowded spaces. But there it was: one lone free table with a red-and-white checked tablecloth against a window with matching curtains.

With two large, house-brewed amber beers in our hands we acquainted ourselves with the menu. You can trace the origins of all the products served, including rabbit and blue- white beef from local West-Flemish farmers and daily fresh fish from nearby Zeebrugge. Knowing this made my dinner choice no easier but when my companion finally settled on the Vlaamsche menu, it persuaded me to take the Noordzee menu.

In the meantime, a paper bag arrived. Curiosity (or hunger) got the better of us and we opened it up for a peek. Inside were warm chunks of springy, grey-brown bread encased in a crispy crust. Slathered in butter, this bread alone, baked fresh in-house, made the journey to Bruges worth it. But we were in for more pleasant surprises.

The Vlaamsche menu starter was a slice of artisanal farmer's pâté, presented next to tart red berries, slices of apple, and a light salad. The pâté tasted of liver, although subtle and palatable, and a pleasant mix of onion and other spices. The Noordzee starter consisted of heaps of little grey shrimps coated in a light pink, creamy cocktail sauce with, underneath, a handful of ripe red cherry tomatoes.

My main dish was waterzooi, the original fish-based version of the classic stew, consisting of boiled potatoes under long strips of delicate white cod, venus and razor clams, a langoustine, plus carrots, celery, leeks, parsley and loads of heavy cream. My companion's main was another classic: Flemish beef stew, stoofvlees, and a lot of it, served in a cast-iron pot. The sauce was dark, sweetened to the taste with Leffe beer and brown sugar, and seasoned with mustard, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. It came with all the fresh fries you could eat.

Dessert was exorbitant at this point. Regardless, we tucked into a generous dish of vanilla ice cream, and a glass jar of Bruges cream, a white pudding-like base with a yellow advocaat and milk chocolate topping. This particular dessert is a secret family recipe, according to Mario. Those with a real penchant for sweets are advised to visit De Vlaamsche Pot in the afternoon for their specialty waffles and pancakes.

www.devlaamschepot.be

> Helmstraat 3-5, Bruges; 050.34.00.86
> Wed-Sun, 12.00-22.00 (reservation recommended)
> Authentic Flemish comfort food from grandmother's time

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