But no need to worry, it is in fact a very friendly and welcoming place. Owner Sofie Van Laere and her five children see to that. With ages ranging from late teens to early 20s, all were present and accounted for during my visit, smiling and working away in the family business. They've practically grown up there, as Van Laere opened the restaurant with her late husband more than 18 years ago.

In spite of our spur-of-the-moment decision to have lunch there on a notoriously hectic Sunday, they made place for our party of 10 at a long table by the window. We all had an enormous appetite and ordered a variety of dishes. Everything arrived at the same time - and within 15 minutes.

There were two orders of paling (eel) in cream sauce, which elicited many sounds of approval from one end of the table. Meanwhile, beer- braised Flemish stew in a cast iron skillet was leaving quite an impression on a few more. Closer to where I was seated, one friend hungrily tucked into his reuzebrochette, a spit on which 350 grams of beef had been spiced, skewered and roasted.

Across the table, mushroom cream sauce was being poured over a just-pink slab of Irish entrecôte. My companion and I shared an enormous portion of Chateaubriand, medium- done, already sliced and with a side of salty, creamy Roquefort sauce.

All the dishes on the table came with a bowl of potato-cut fries and mayonnaise (with a hint of mustard). But the best part about ordering a steak, aside from the meat itself, which was well prepared and incredibly juicy, were all the vegetables that came with it: carrot strips browned in onion and bacon, butter-sautéed witloof, even half a tomato. The dish was accentuated with a springy heap of fresh and peppery watercress that perfectly offset the palate.

In addition to the above-mentioned classics, Pietje Pek also specialises in mussels, fish stew, fillet of sole, crown of lamb, homemade croquettes and more. And, although our party couldn't even think about dessert, they also offer pancakes, waffles, crème brûlée, chocolate mousse, etc. There will definitely be a next time.

http://sites.resto.com/pietjepek

> Mariakerksesteenweg 87, Drongen; 09.236.37.37
> Thurs, 17.30-1.00; Fri-Sun, 11.00-1.00
> All the Flemish classics, in royal portions and with ultra-friendly service

Contact Bite at [email protected]