But time and again, I can rely on a hearty welcome from the whole big famiglia at Restaurant Da Marianna.

Aldo Arnone runs the show in this large space warmed by Mediterranean colours, red tablecloths, ageless furniture and countless bottles of wine. His wife, Marianna Luparello, exudes Italian flair as she tirelessly works the room, balancing runs to the kitchen with lengthy chats to her guests (in French, mind you). They only opened three years ago, but Da Marianna is already an established favourite in the East Flemish town of Kruishoutem.

From past visits, I can attest to the high quality of traditional classics such as veal escalope and lasagne. You’ll also find spaghetti carbonara, penne a la crema, tagliatelle ai scampi, risotto alla Marianna and trio di pasta, a big platter to share between two.

Starters range from various types of Carpaccio (bresaola or salted beef, veal, tuna, salmon), garlic bread, bruschetta, Prosciutto di Parma with melon, tomato-mozzarella and more.

That said, it is actually the pizza that keeps me – religiously – coming back. Next to the flour-dusted counter where Aldo kneads and tosses dough is a massive wood-fired brick oven. Here they slide in the pizzas using a long-handled peel and take them out again, light and crispy.

Red wine is always a good match for tomatoey pizzas, but out of thirst, my companion and I opt for two cold Ename blondes. The quattro formaggi is a good-sized pie loaded with a cheesy foursome of mild mozzarella, creamy stracchino, salty gorgonzola and nutty fontina, seasoned with basil and oregano.

As an antidote to all this melt-in-your-mouth richness, we make our second pizza a caprese. It contains all fresh ingredients in a tried-and-true recipe combining the crunch of the crust with the soft elasticity of the mozzarella, sweet basil with peppery rocket, plus parmesan cheese for a sharp, pungent flavour. We add a supplement of ham for good measure. Best of all, the little warm tomatoes release their tangy juices with every bite.

One grappa and one amaretto later, we gladly open our wallets to pay the €36 bill.

Tip: Come on a Monday night and hear a live singer perform Italian favourites, from Andrea Bocelli to Zucchero. If you’re lucky, the whole family will pass around the mic.

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