The indispensable GPS leads us to a rural, wooded area with narrow, winding roads where we pass a couple of barely visible signs pointing the way to the brasserie. (Specht, by the way, means woodpecker in Dutch.) When the road reaches a dead end, and you see a few people holding fishing poles crouched around a pond, you have arrived.

Turn the corner to see a gorgeously renovated building, open for two years now. But the whole place has a characteristic vintage feel to it with plenty of rich wood, a cosy fireplace outside and a charming masonry stove.

The terrace stretches out over one of the ponds, and three white swans make their way over to greet us. Meanwhile, the owners’ dog and puppy are already making friends with my own dog. This is possibly the most unique welcoming committee I’ve ever encountered at a restaurant.

The owner, Myriam Van Damme, is also warm and friendly as she comes to take our drink orders. She runs the place together with her son, Lieven Van der Poorten, who we quickly discover is a most talented chef.

While waiting for our mains, we notice that the exuberant group of women next to us is out celebrating a birthday. As soon as the sun starts to descend, the owner brings out a large candelabra, places it at the middle of their table and lights each candle. Truly classy.

A lot of effort also goes into presentation, as we see when the dishes arrive on grey slates drizzled with balsamic syrup. The accompanying bowls of salad are spilling over with fresh ingredients, including red onion rings, half sun-dried tomatoes, hardboiled egg quarters and a garnishing of leaf celery. The combination is an explosion of textures and flavours, enhanced by a tangy dressing.

One of my neighbours tucks into an order of bacon-wrapped goat cheese. Hefty slices of salty smoked bacon covered in grill marks and dried herbs, can hardly contain the warm, creamy and pungent cheese. A few slices of sweet mango balance out the dish.

I rarely order chicken in a restaurant because it tends to be dry and lacking flavour, but my neighbour’s chicken brochette is anything but. The plump, moist chunks of poultry are grilled on a skewer and seasoned to perfection with mustard and black pepper.

Our other dining companion is equally pleased with his Italian ham – thick slices of grilled pork that taste predominately of salted butter and rosemary. My own dish is a royal slab of Irish rib-eye steak – tender, juicy and full of flavour thanks to a marbling of fat.

We prolong the summer evening on this dreamy terrace with a round of beers. Eventually we get up to go and, on our way out the door, the owners point to a sign that reads: Thank you very much, and please come back soon. I did – the very next night.

Spechtbaan 8, Iddergem (Denderleeuw)
reservation recommended: 0477.44.44.63

Wed-Fri & Sun, 11.00-22.00; Sat, 15.00-22.00
(kitchen open: 12.00-14.00 & 18.00-21.00)

Mains: €15-€25

Romantic hidden gem in the middle of
nowhere with quality meat dishes and the
best of hospitality

Contact Bite at flandersbite@gmail.com