Petrus was also known as a bit of a town jokester, who would hang his tall top hat from the flagpole during any festivity. That’s why the current and third-generation owners named it Den Hoed (The Hat) when they took over the business in 1987.

Continuing the tradition, Den Hoed specialises in mussels. You can have them raw or prepared in either Provençal or Armagnac sauce or in escargot butter. But that’s not all this wet, low-lying polder region is known for; freshwater eel is another delicacy here. At Den Hoed, they serve it baked or in one of a number of sauces, including green herb (mainly chervil), and “De Vliet”, a cream sauce with mushrooms and shrimp.

During asparagus season (roughly March through June), you can indulge in a variety of lovely white asparagus dishes: Flemish-style, in Mousseline sauce, or with vinaigrette, smoked salmon, cod or ham. My dining companion and I had our minds set on asparagus starters before we even sat down.

Out come two plates of asparagus. Mine are doused in a Mousseline sauce, a refined version of Hollandaise based on butter, eggs and vinegar, finished off with fresh whipped cream and white pepper. It’s silky smooth and with a buttery, slightly tangy flavour that lends itself perfectly to the delicate, earthy character of the asparagus. Across the table, I can see that the Flemish-style asparagus are equally delicious – the stalks just tender enough and covered in a fine mixture of butter, parsley and soft-boiled egg.

With two freshly tapped lagers in hand, we eagerly await our mains: baked eel and eel “De Vliet”. The latter is a pot filled with a thick and creamy white sauce, mushrooms, little North Sea shrimp and big chunks of eel. The dish is warm and filling and wholly satisfying to eat, especially with the crispy, fresh-cut fries that come with it.

Still, I can see that my dining companion has made the best choice. He’s using his hands to eat, separating the pieces of baked eel from the thin bones, which then go on a convenient side bowl connected to the plate. The outside is crispy, almost fried, and the eel is fatty, soft and tasty. I try it, and swear to never have eel prepared any other way again. When baked, eel loses some of its typically viscous texture, becoming more firm and meaty.

Two coffees and €80 later, we’re out the door with full bellies and a positive dining experience.

www.denhoed.be

Kloosterstraat 3, Assenede (East Flanders); 09.344.57.03

Mon 11.45-15.00; Wed-Sat 11.45-15.00 & 17.00-21.30; Sun 11.45-21.30

Mains: €15-€25

Traditional polder restaurant serving up regional specialties eel, mussels and asparagus