In a quiet corner of the historic centre, on a tiny street named Hemelrijk, is a café with the same name. Hemelrijk, translated into Latin as Regnum Celestis over the door, means Heavenly Kingdom and most likely comes from the street’s proximity to the cathedral, Saint Quintus. According to the owner, there used to be a children’s cemetery nearby.

Founded 30 years ago, Het Hemelrijk is known for its extensive beer selection. Cosimo De Noi, the bar’s third proprietor, claims to have approximately 630 beers in stock. (I confess, I didn’t actually count them.) Once a year, he updates the menu. There are two Beers of the Month on tap; this month they are Kasteel Donker and Gauloise Fruits Rouges.

The menu is helpfully divided into sections: white beer, Trappist beer, abbey beer, blonde and amber, dark, stout, kriek, fruit beer, gueuze and Christmas beer. Most of the beer is Belgian, but there is a small selection of foreign imports. Het Hemelrijk is one of the few places where you can order Westvleteren, that most elusive of the Trappist beers, widely considered the best beer in the world.

In addition the overwhelming beer selection, the café offers a large selection of jenevers and whiskeys. The focus is clearly on drinking: the only food on the menu is a small selection of bar snacks. But no one comes here to eat; the beer is the main attraction. De Noi says his customers include many tourists from the United States, England and Germany.

The café is charming and attractive, with wooden tables, a bright back section lit by skylights during the day and a baby Grand tucked into one corner. On Sundays, students from the nearby music academy treat patrons to informal performances on the piano.