There is a lot in a name – or at least that’s the impression you get from reading certain Brussels street signs. For example, Bosniëstraat is located in Sint-Gillis, one of the poorest communes, while Floridalaan can be found in the middle of affluent Ukkel.

The most distinctly Flemish area in the capital, meanwhile (the Dansaert/Graanmarkt neighbourhood), boasts a street named Vlaamsesteenweg. You couldn’t make it up.

How fitting, then, that Roskam, a café particularly popular with Brussels’ Flemish night owls, should be situated on the very same street. As my esteemed editor pointed out, it is somewhat surprising that these pages had never devoted a single column to this equally esteemed establishment. Until now, that is.

Roskam is not a specialist beer bar. Nor is it exclusive. Nor is it a “niche” pub for the Flemish community. On my latest visit, our party consisted of three French-speaking Belgians, an Englishwoman and an Australian rock chick; the bar staff made a point of serving us in our respective languages.

The drinks menu doesn’t feature many surprises for the centre of Brussels, but the presence of Oud-Beersel Geuze and kriek and of the incredibly moreish apple Martini cocktail should be noted. And on a reassuring note, the availability De Koninck beer on tap, served in a bolleke glass, leaves you in no doubt about the Flemish credentials of the place.

Roskam is a rather loud bar, even without music – a sure sign that passionate conversations are in full flow. A wide selection of DJs perform at weekends, and Roskam also hosts acoustic gigs; recent performances include pianist Mike Sanchez and bluegrass punksters Black Jake & The Carnies.

At the back of the bar is a slightly elevated platform with comfy chairs and sofas for the more intimate minded, old black-and-white photos of the Brussels of yore in the background.

A live venue, unforced ambiance, friendly service, a genuine Brussels café... Roskam is all those things and more – and it is open seriously late. A friend, who may or may not be the editor of this paper, recently confided that she loves Roskam because it is the perfect place to have “one last drink”... but I won’t mention the time of night she cited.

www.cafe-roskam.be

Vlaamsesteenweg 9
Brussels