For the second edition of our series on biking in Limburg, we invite you to put down your frietjes, dear reader, and get out to explore Belgium’s one and only national park by means of its most cherished pastime – cycling.
The Hoge Kempen National Park, established in 2006, is a magnificent expanse of 5,000 hectares of forest and heath land between Genk and the Meuse Valley. It is truly a green oasis, as the land around the park is densely populated and industrial.
From 1900 to1990, this area of Limburg was a coal-mining region. When the coal industry dried up, the Regionaal Landschap Kempen en Maasland (RLKM) was created to help strike a balance between development interests and conservation.
Creation of Belgium’s first national park entailed heavy lobbying of politicians and a direct investment of about €80 million from a variety of different public and private stakeholders. The RLKM’s creative and resourceful development model has been held up as an example around the world.
And the investment is paying off in a number of significant ways. The park serves as a valuable protector for about 80% of Belgium’s “red-listed” species. There are 17 species of threatened dragonflies, for example. In addition, the park and its gateways receive about 800,000 visitors each year, bringing a healthy infusion of revenue. It's estimated that visiting walkers and bikers bring in about €19.5 million per year.
The ride
You can find information, food and parking at each of five gateways to the park. I started my ride at the Kattevennen Gateway, which is only a few kilometres east of the Genk train station.
I then chose Fietsroute 1 (Bike route 1) from a Hoge Kempen cycling map put out by the Limburg tourist office. This is a moderate loop of 35 kilometres that caters to cyclists of all abilities. Beginning bikers will enjoy the fact that it is mostly flat but features some small, rolling hills for a challenge. (There are also a couple of larger ones, too, to keep experienced cyclists content.)
The path begins at knooppunt (junction) 30. Here you’ll also find an information point and a café. If you have an interest in astronomy, you might want to make time to visit the Euro Planetarium located at the Kattevennen Gateway. From path 30 to 41, it’s about 12 kilometres, and most of this car-free. The ride begins near the lovely, forested Domain Kattevennen. Much of this portion of the path is lined with trees adorned with leaves in incredibly vibrant shades of green. You’ll also pass through the Heempark, home to a playground and petting zoo.
If you want a unique Flemish countryside experience, keep your eyes open and follow the sign that points to the eierautomaat – an egg vending machine.
From 41 to 60, it’s five kilometres along Steenweg naar As (on a separate bike path beside the road). Though this isn’t the prettiest part of the ride, you’ll eventually have a welcome break from pedalling at the matige helling (moderate slope) that is enough to give you a simultaneous rest and rush. ’t Salamanderke is a nice stopping point for a snack; it’s about halfway along the route near junction 60 and Maasmechelen. Relax on the terrace by the pool with some coffee and Limburg pie. The service is friendly (as it usually is in Limburg), and the menu features broodjes and pasta. If you had the foresight to bring along some food, there is also a picnic spot near junction 60.
Take path 60 to 61 and then head towards 29. Right past 61, you’ll hit the hard realisation that what goes up must come down. I found myself cursing the upward slope labelled as matige on the map.
But the climb is worthwhile. When you reach the top, you’re justly rewarded with an absolutely stunning view of lakes, trees and heath. There is also a picnic place here – a great place to stop and catch your breath after the climb and scenery have taken it away.
If you’ve time and energy to venture a bit off loop 1, there’s an interesting diversion on the way from 61 to 29. Just head towards path 64 near Zutendaal (and Gateway Lieteberg), and you’ll soon find an insect museum and blotevoetenpad (barefoot path), a walking path designed to give your bare feet a unique, sensory experience.
In several more kilometres you complete the loop. To return to the starting point, head towards 29 and then return to 30.
Hoofing it
If you aren’t into cycling, you’ve got other options for discovering Hoge Kempen. The park offers a 140-kilometre network of horseback riding and carriage trails. And walkers can choose from 36 signposted loops that range from 3 to 14 km. More ambitious ambulators can take a longdistance (72 km) trek in and around the park. Maps can be purchased online or in local tourist offices.
You can access the Hoge Kempen National Park from five gateways. Each area features different scenery and activities, and ranger-guided excursions throughout the park can be arranged, as well.
The Kattevennen Gateway is home to a café and an observatory and planetarium. Planetariumweg 18, Genk At Gateway Station As you can learn about the area’s rich coal mining history and ride an old diesel train from As to Eisden or Waterschei. Stationstraat 124, As
www.kolenspoor.be
Gateway Mechelse Heide is recommended for walkers. The area has well-marked trails and scenic panoramas. Go in August and September to see flowering purple heath. J Smeetslaan 280, Maasmechelen
www.lanaken.be
Gateway Pietersheim features a petting zoo, playground and “gnome’s path”. Neerharenweg 12, Lanaken You’ll find the barefoot trail at the Lieteberg Gateway as well as an insect museum, butterfly garden and bee park. Blookbergstraat, Zutendaal
www.lieteberg.be
A combination return train ticket and bike rental (B-excursion “train + bike hire”) is available for the Hoge Kempen. Reserve your bike by calling 0800.96967 at least a day in advance. Pick up is at Fietspunt Genk at the city’s train station. Bikes can also be rented at the Gateway Kattevennen. Call in advance to reserve on 089.65.55.55.
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