"I found that whenever I travelled to other countries, or even other towns in Belgium, I was always drawn to the cheese shops. I had to go in and find out what was different and unique - to look, to buy, to taste. I realized that I have always had a big love of cheese."

This passion turned into a calling ten years ago when he decided to sell his bistro and open cheese shop Callebaut Kaasmeester in Nederstraat, Oudenaarde. Initially, he sold what most other cheese sellers offer - the basic cheeses, which he describes as poor quality and mass-produced.

It wasn't until he met some fellow colleagues and went to a Slow Food convention in Italy that he discovered the beauty of raw milk cheese and sampled artisan cheeses from small producers. "It was there that I lost my heart," Callebaut admits. "I knew I had to have those cheeses in my shop."

Three weeks later, he cleared out his entire inventory and started from scratch with all new products. "At first the customers objected because it was all so unfamiliar but after convincing them to sample the various types of cheese, the products practically sold themselves."

And the variety of cheese is staggering. Luc likes to have no less than 180 varieties of cheese in the shop at one time. In the holiday season, this reaches up to 250 types. With no cheese cave, this is quite a turnover. He has over 500 customers a week coming to his shop from all over the region. On average, customers come once a month and 80% are regular. But every day he has new people coming to his shop to discover truly quality cheese.

It makes sense that people keep coming back to a specialty shop. When you compare Callebaut cheese with supermarket cheese, the difference is clear: "My cheese is good," he deadpans. Eventually he breaks into a laugh and then adds, "No really, I don't just sell cheese; I sell information and knowledge. I like every single cheese in here, so I know it's good. I can tell you a story about each and every one, from its producer to how I discovered it. And, I encourage you to sample until you find a cheese you really enjoy."

Callebaut has even been selected the best cheesemonger in all of Belgium at the prestigious Caseus Awards competition in France. But what qualifies for an excellent cheesemonger? Well, for starters, he must slice the cheese into five parcels of 250 grams without weighing it. He must provide the discerning judges with an enlightening course on cheese tasting. And furthermore, he must be able to identify six different types of cheese at a blind tasting.

After winning this honorary title, the number of people coming to the shop certainly increased. The first few years were difficult but over time, his business slowly gained momentum. He does no advertising or marketing. All of his success is based upon word of mouth and occasional press from the award he won last year.

This man knows his cheese. In fact, he loves his cheese. When I asked what his favourite was, he hesitated for a long time, unable to imagine making such a difficult choice. Finally, he just began listing off all of his favourites, per country.

Choosing a preferred Belgian cheese proved fairly easy for Callebaut: the famed Grevenbroecker, also known as Achelse Blauwe, or Achel Blue. It's an award-winning blue cheese unique to one producer gaining fame across the world. As a sliver melted in my mouth, with a smooth, creamy texture and distinctive but not overpowering flavor, I could understand why.

Luc also commissioned a local cheese maker to produce two cheeses for him. Both are cow's milk cheeses. One, the Adriaen Brouwer (named after the beer from local Oudenaarde brewery Roman) is a cheese made by adding the brown beer to the curds. The other, Sloeberken (also named after a Roman Brewery beer), has the cheese rind washed in the light blonde brew. Both cheeses were pleasantly mild, similar to Gouda, but also delicious with distinguishing flavours between them.

Callebaut's enthusiasm is palpable. Every question I ask is returned with a greater enthusiasm for his profession. When I ask what he thinks of cheesmongering, he is off, "This is as good as it gets. I don't ever want to change my life. There is variety, change. I go to Paris every two weeks to select cheese, and I travel to Italy, the UK and Spain to meet producers. I get to talk to talented cheese makers in their own backyards. I am thrilled to be where I am."

By the time I left his shop, I was ready to become a cheesemonger myself. But in the meantime, I'll just be content with a hunk of the gorgeous Grevenbroecker.

www.kaasmeester-callebaut.be

Cheese 101

CATEGORIES: Cheese can be made from goat, sheep or, most commonly, cow's milk. In addition to the type of milk used, there are additional categories that give a cheese its distinct character: fresh cheese, blue cheese, washed rind cheese, white rind cheese and hard pressed cheese.

AMOUNT: For a meal, about 200-250 grams per person. Of this, you can split up the order into smaller amounts. For example, 50 grams of sheep's cheese, half a round of goat cheese, 100 grams of blue cheese, etc.

STORAGE: Luc was quite adamant: "Don't buy cheese to save it. Buy cheese to eat it. The sooner you can eat the cheese, the better it tastes." However, keep it in the paper the shop gives you, place it in the fridge (preferably at the bottom of the vegetable crisper) or even better, a cellar or garage where the temperature is an even 10-13 degrees Celsius.

COST: Prices range from €18.50 on up until, well, the sky's the limit. Luc mentions a €43 a kilo Testun Al Barolo that is a once-in-a-lifetime cheese that is worth the money. Don't forget though - you are buying in grams. The Grevenbroecker is about €34 a kilo, which isn't much more than your average Rochefort cheeses.

PAIRING: Surprisingly, Luc advises against having a red wine with your cheese. Instead, if you are having a glass of wine, perhaps save the cheese for another time. If you are enjoying very nice cheese, however, then a soft, unassuming white wine will do. Not only do the flavours of white wine more readily complement cheese, but there is far less competition going on between overly bold flavours.

PARTY IDEA: If you were to have a dinner party, consider a cheese tasting menu, where you offer a nice variety of cheeses. Served on a platter with some fresh bread, fruit and nuts, this tasting menu means no cooking, no messy kitchen and a more interactive evening as everyone has fun discovering new cheeses.

MORE CHEESE SHOPS: There are a handful of cheesemongers in Flanders that offer high-quality cheeses. Luc suggests Peter Verbruggen of ‘t Kaasplankske, Onze Lieve Vrouwstraat, Beringen; Harry Schockaert, Ijzerenleen, Mechelen; and Dirk Martens, Turnhoutsebaan, Schilde.