The flowers at this particular market mostly come from Flanders with a number of imports from Holland. However, this isn't bargain-hunting time. Coming to this flower market means seeking out the finest horticulturalists in Belgium. Ann Verbrugge-Janssen of Lochristi says, "Only the best flower sellers survive in this market. If your products aren't good or aren't the best, you won't be back. There are too many excellent vendors for mediocrity to thrive."

She should know, coming from Lochristi, a small East Flanders town nicknamed the bloemengemeente (flower community), as the town earns most of its income from azaleas and begonias. A third-generation flower seller, Ann inherited her parents' flower farm and runs the company with her partner Guy. The pair is quite well known, not just for having one of the largest spots staked out with two large tractor-trailers full of plants, but also for their obvious dedication.

They are the only vendor who works every weekend, all weekend long. While most flower sellers arrive and depart on Sunday, Ann and Guy set up shop on Friday and stay until Sunday, selling flowers the entire weekend. "Most vendors only come on Sunday but we don't have children so we're happy to work all weekend long. There were others before, but we persevered and now it's only us. We're also here for the entire month of December selling our Christmas trees. We don't mind. It's what we are known for." In other months, Ann and Guy specialise more in azaleas and orchids.

She explains how each vendor has a specialty and together, each seller in the market brings a different aspect to create a well-rounded flower market. It seems that in addition to each vendor being well respected by their peers, they all know their place, literally. The layout of the market is not haphazard but carefully planned. Ann describes the layout of the market as being as well balanced as the products that are being sold there. The main section of the square has vendors selling indoor and outdoor plants and flowers, creating a central lane that has the feel of a nature park. Here you can buy a range of plants from raspberry bushes and flower bulbs to small succulents, cacti and perfectly braided ficus trees.

Skirting the outer rim of the square are vendors selling simple cut flowers such as sunflowers, tulips and roses as well as gorgeous ready-made bouquets. This distinction between house and garden plants and florists appeals greatly to Ann and Guy Verbrugge-Janssen of Lochristi. "The separation of the two is really necessary," she says. "It makes us both look better as it is visually cleaner, less cluttered. There is no competition between my potted orchids and their cut bouquets. Plus, it's easier for the customers browsing to find exactly what they're looking for."

Many people travel from all over Flanders to wander the small market. The appeal isn't simply the beautiful arrangements or exotic flowers but the entire atmosphere. In fact, Ann notes that she knows many people who come every single week, not necessarily to purchase anything, but simply to soak up the atmosphere.

Sundays on the Kouter are by no means limited to those with a green thumb. From atop the kiosk in the centre of the square, various local brass bands perform free concerts. On one end of the square is a coffee stand selling espresso drinks and pastries, while on the other a tiny wine bar. Strolling along, admiring the flowers and listening to music, it is hard not to feel relaxed.

Date and Hours: Sundays, year round, 8.00 to about 14.00
Concerts: May to September, 11.00 to 12.30
Getting there: Take tram 1 from Gent Sint-Pieters Station directly to the Kouter. There is parking underneath the square as well.

www.visitgent.be

Oysters and wine

While visiting the flower market, it's impossible to miss the classy corner with its small blue stand surrounded by high white tables where people gather every Sunday, casually quaffing champagne and, on a good day, enjoying the summer sunshine. What better way to finish off a stroll through the flower market than with oysters from France, shrimp from Belgium and wine from Germany - this elegant reprieve is so very European.

Don't be intimidated by the sound of all this luxury. The Blauwe Kiosk, an oyster and aperitif bar run by the same owners of the well known lobster restaurant Le Grand Bleu, is surprisingly affordable and accessible. Just walk up to the window and order a few drinks and plate of nibbles, be it salmon toasts or a dozen raw oysters. A glass of white wine is €1.50 and a bottle of sweet Rheinischer Landwein is €10.

If you make a habit of having a drink on a Sunday afternoon at the flower market, expect to see some familiar faces, as this is a tradition shared by many Ghent locals. Rudy, 53, and Denis, 52, have been coming every few weeks for about ten years. "Even in the winter?" I ask. They laugh and nod, "Then we simply dress warmer."