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Eating is believing

The best chefs from across the globe come together in Ostend

"We have our own farm a few kilometres from here where we're rebuilding a restaurant in two years," he says. "On three hectares of ground, we're cultivating all our own vegetables, herbs and flowers. And this summer, we will have 50 types of cherry tomatoes."

Fifty? I double-check he didn't say 15. "Fifty. It is amazing. We have black ones, really dark black ones. Others that look like lychees." As he sings the praises of vegetables, it becomes clear why he is one of the presenters at The Flemish Primitives.

A two-day food conference in its third year geared towards food industry specialists, The Flemish Primitives wants to inspire chefs and bring them together to discuss their projects and new ideas, especially around the concept of innovation.

While many think of food innovation in terms of molecular gastronomy and technology, De Mangeleer has a different definition. "For me, innovation is in the combination of vegetables, to use a special vegetable no one else has. Like courgettes; we use the very small ones, about one centimetre, the closed flower. Or our 50 tomatoes. Innovation is in the new tomatoes and presentation. Simple doesn't mean it's not innovative. Simplicity is not simple."

The varying definition of innovation is what has made The Flemish Primitives, which is also open to the public, so popular. "Innovation is the idea on which The Flemish Primitives is based because Belgium is very much at the heart of culinary innovation at the moment," says event producer Peter Monbailleu.

Named after the 15th- and 16th-century painting masters who were pioneers in technique and talent, the event aims to continue in this spirit by promoting interaction between the best of Flanders' - and the world's - most innovative chefs, scientists and artists.

"It's a beautiful event," say De Mangeleer. "It is the perfect tool to contact other colleagues to come together and do some brainstorming. Plus, you present your own restaurant worldwide, show the world what we're doing here in Flanders. It is an honour to be on the stage. It is an appreciation of my work and of what we want to do on the farm."

The Flemish Primitives, which this year has moved from Bruges to the larger Kursaal in Ostend, also offers the opportunity to promote Flemish products. "We have a large number of local products, like Zeebrugge shrimps, hops and asparagus. It's nice to show the world what we do with our unique products."

His own presentation will focus on, not surprisingly, vegetables. "We're going to work around vegetables and wine. I'm discussing my farm and some of the small, rare vegetables we are working with now. My business partner will talk about wine and how to pair it with vegetables."

Peter Monbailleu: "For the 2011 edition, chefs will present projects in duos or groups, display in gcontrasts, like-mindedness and passion. Every duo will work around a strong theme. The first edition focused on food pairing, the second was more an overview of technical innovations and for the third edition, the focus lies on cooking, cooking and cooking."

There are a number of different elements to the event. On Sunday are Master Classes, in-depth sessions with international specialists on a specific topic such as fermentation or precise temperature cooking, while on Sunday Night is a Gala dinner featuring 13 Belgian chefs. The main event is on Monday, with various lectures and presentations beginning at 9.00 and ending at 19.30.

The list of big chef names and fascinating courses is inspiring. De Mangeleer and his sommelier, for example, will share the stage with Jonnie Boer of De Librije, one of two restaurants in the Netherlands with three Michelin stars. The day closes with a final session by Flemish chocolate icon Dominique Persoone of The Chocolate Line, together with Brazilian Chef Alex Atala, whose São Paulo restaurant D.O.M. creates classic Brazilian dishes using innovative techniques, earning him 18th place on the prestigious S Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants list (just below Flanders' Hof Van Cleve).

The full day's program isn't cheap, but the €295 price tag is geared towards industry professionals who know what it is worth to be in the same room as famed French perfectionist Michel Bras; René Redzepi, the talent behind S Pellegrino's number one restaurant, Copenhagen's Noma; or avant-garde Italian pioneer Massimo Bottura.

The Flemish Primitives
13-14 March
Kursaal Ostend
www.theflemishprimitives.com

(March 2, 2024)