Half of the produce found in kitchens across Belgium today is organically grown, in line with the current European average. But back in the early 1980s, before anyone had even heard of an “organic farm”, Antoine De Paepe started one.

A visionary with a love of nature, De Paepe left his job at the rail services to turn his parents’ one-hectare cow farm into a huge vegetable garden. Ten years later, he met Leen Verwimp, and the two combined their passion for healthy, organic food to develop the farm into what it is today: Two-and-a-half hectares of lush, green fields at the edge of the Flemish Ardennes, where over 45 types of seasonal vegetables are grown without using a single pesticide or artificial fertiliser.

Apart from some small farm machinery, De Paepe and Verwimp sow, weed and pick everything by hand. They lay nets over the crops to deter eager birds and plant wildflower borders to lure away insects. Of course, with almost 250 regular clients in the region between Zottegem and Aalst, they also rely on a lot of help from friends and family, including their daughter Inge and organic agriculture student Sam Persoon.

Persoon is a young farmer and full-time partner to the couple, working right alongside them, day in, day out. He hopes to take over the reins when De Paepe and Verwimp retire. Then there are the many clients who gladly come over on organised weeding days to lend a hand and take an active part in growing their own food.

Farm as supermarket
While most fans of organic food simply buy it in the supermarket, clients with a subscription at De Kollebloem have the added advantage of a personal relationship with the farmers. On Tuesdays, they stop by the farm, or one of its nearby pick-up points, to get their prepared veggie, fruit or bread crates. (De Kollebloem works together with other local bio-farmers to offer more than just vegetables.)

“That’s what makes this job so interesting – the close contact with the people,” says De Paepe. “They come over to have a chat and pick up their produce, which we’ve spent the day selecting by hand and putting into crates. It just makes the whole process that much more personal.” Even without a subscription, you can stop by the farm and visit its market, with produce, wine, tea, sauces and other organically produced products.

Ask a consumer why he or she buys organic and you are likely to hear that it tastes better or has more vitamins. But there are more reasons: “I stepped into a bio-shop the other day, and I was pleasantly surprised by the variety,” says sporadic organic shopper Anniek Chiau. “I like to cook, and organic farms produce a lot of so-called ‘forgotten vegetables’ that I have now learned to integrate into my cooking. Things like parsnip, purslane and white radish, plus a whole range of high-quality regional veg, are now getting attention again. They’re a good way to liven up a recipe.”

People are more and more convinced. Organic purchases in Belgium rose a whopping 25% last year alone. Organic has finally shaken its strictly hippie-vegetarian image and moved into the mainstream as an appropriate food choice for eco- and health-conscious people.

“We prefer to sell directly to our clients for many reasons,” explains Verwimp. “Not the least of which is that it makes the most sense for the environment. Most of the food you see in the big supermarkets has travelled a very long distance to get there.”

Just as important is the fact that buying locally keeps small farmers in business. “And we love what we do,” smiles Verwimp. “We are in tune with the earth.”

www.kollebloem.be

Just a bike-ride away

Organic is by no means limited to fruit and veg. Dairy, meat, wine, bread and much more can all be produced in an organic way, which means without harmful chemicals or artificial additives. Keep an eye out for the bio-label in supermarkets, stop by a natural food shop or, better yet, plan a weekend outing around a visit to an organic farm. You find them spotted across the Flemish countryside, the perfect finale to a Saturday afternoon bike ride or walk.

For creamy organic goat cheese, head for De Haan on the Flemish coast. 't Reigershof has over 200 goats and produces an array of hard and soft cheeses, feta and yoghurt.
www.reigershof.be

For organic wine, the place to be is Hageling-Wijnbouw in Tienen, about 20 kilometres southeast of Leuven. The vineyards, winery and cellars are open for visits until mid-August.
www.hageling-bio.be

Visit www.biodichtbijhuis.be for a complete overview of all officially recognised organic farms, as well as organic restaurants, shops, markets, butchers and bakers.