It is difficult to pinpoint when all this design pressure began, though the collaboration of high-street chain H&M with high-end designer Karl Lagerfeld in 2004 must have had something to do with it. Before that, such a collaboration was unheard of. Now, it seems the only way for a label to stay cool is to attract a high-profile fashion designer to revitalise their image.
Puma, for example, added a fashion dimension to their sporty style by asking Sergio Rossi to do a special line of sneaker-inspired shoes and by hiring visionary designer Hussein Chalayan as their creative director. Eastpak, the ultra-respectable brand known for its indestructible backpacks, assigned designer duo Eley Kishimoto to develop a summer collection and has a collaboration with American cult designer Rick Owens waiting in the wings until fall.
Meanwhile, Belgian brand Kipling made a similar arrangement to introduce a capsule collection with Valeria Siniouchkina of Girls from OMSK.
It’s not that these designers are repeating their tricks, only for a different label. They are actually branching out into new territory, often not having a line of accessories themselves, or venturing into a different style domain. Nissim Israël of Belgian brand Olivier Strelli, for example, will design stockings for Cette next fall, while this summer he debuts a line of wall decorations for Home Interiors.
This collection of wallpapers takes fashion and applies it to an entirely different field: a strategy other brands have already perfected. G-Star developed not only a car, a boat, a bike and even a helmet under their brand, dousing these objects in their typical street wear style, but recently they also launched a musical platform, releasing G-Star CDs.
Tommy Hilfiger has been into music for much longer, organising Hilfiger Sessions events all over the world: intimate jam concerts where fashion and music lovers can discover new talent.
But it’s not just music: pop culture in all of its forms is inspiring fashion. Why else would Louis Vuitton have asked director Sofia Coppola to design her own line of handbags and shoes for the brand, or would Pepe Jeans have turned to the Andy Warhol foundation for an exclusive collaboration?
Obviously, we haven’t seen the last of these creative crossovers, though one can’t help but wonder: when will people become wistful for fashion in its purest, most authentic form?