The trees glistened with little fairy lights, a green streak of parrots cried out overhead, and the whole thing took on a magical feel against the darkening magenta sky. We reached the bandstand to find a slim man bobbing away furiously in front of a grand piano, its innards exposed and revealing large swathes of masking tape stuck over the chords. A couple of violinists and a cellist sat facing him, waiting. Pink and green lights hit his face as it grew darker, and a transfixed crowd hunched on benches or sat on the ground hugging their knees. We sat down with them and let ourselves be carried by the moment. It was the experimental German pianist Hauschka, and we were hooked.

This year this enchanted little five- night gathering opens with the beautiful rhythmic folk rock of the Leuven four-piece Isbells. Joining them to shake things up with their melodic indie rock and bittersweet lyrics are Marble Sounds, a Belgian band signed to the same independent Zealrecords label as Isbells and which shares one of its guitarists, Gianni Marzo.

In fact, this year's Feeërieën, which is absolutely free, is a great way to discover bands with cult followings in Belgium. The indie folk-rock with quirky lyrics continues with Belgian nine-piece The Bear that Wasn't (with the added dimension of cello and violins) and Flemish popster Flip Kowlier, who sings in West Flemish dialect.

But for haunting contemporary classical, don't miss Die Anarchistische Abendunterhaltung (DAAU) on 24 August. The newer compositions weave together strands of clarinet, accordion, cello and double bass that carry you far away. "There is no better way to listen to our music than lying down with your eyes closed," says accordion player Roel Van Camp. I couldn't agree more.

DAAU emerged from the fertile Antwerp scene of the early 1990s that also spawned dEUS and Zita Swoon. Since then it has been reborn from a six-piece to a four- piece, moving to more minimalist compositions born of emotion and improvisation.

International offerings include the Norwegian duo Susanna and the Magical Orchestra, sounding uncannily like Kate Bush. They're billed with warbling American singer-songwriter Josephine Foster and her acoustic guitar. If that's too unplugged for you, retreat to the buzz of the beer tent and come back the following night when you can expect a slightly more up-tempo evening of enigmatic soul, synths and drum machines as Germany's Raz Ohara and the Odd Orchestra take to the bandstand to close the festival.

23-27 August
Warende Park Koningsstraat & Paleizenplein Brussels
www.abconcerts.bee