This Saturday, however, the city festival Feest in 't Stad will lighten things up considerably when an impressive Lights Parade with floats and 200 artists will march along the Scheldt River. They'll end up at the Grote Markt where, under fireworks, a Mr Claus will declare the Christmas market officially open.

Red noses will weave their way along this stretch of more than 100 stalls all the way to the river-side Steenplein, while the neighbouring Groenplaats hosts the glass house of the Music for Life charity event.

Music for Life is a marathon radio broadcast by three Studio Brussel DJs locked in a glass house. You pay them, they play you a song, and donations go towards the Red Cross to be distributed to African children who've lost their parents to Aids.

The Christmas Market, meanwhile, features a nostalgic merry-go-round and a skating rink on the Grote Markt, surrounded by heated café terraces. Yet another skating rink is located on the Steenplein, where, in the shadow of the Steen castle, you can glide until late into the night. I've always wondered how cold it was in those Breughel-like paintings, where you see people skating on the frozen river Scheldt itself. How I would love to look through its clear ice and see what's lying at the bottom. But for now, skating right next to the river has to be the best you can hope for.

While on Christmas Day, the market closes early and shops and museums will be closed, the Antwerp Zoo will remain open. Time to visit the family!

The broad stretch of icy black waters called the Scheldt will be illuminated colourfully with the popular New Year's Eve fireworks, set off from a river pontoon at 23.55 sharp.

Join the traditional free Mayor's New Year's Drink on 9 January and, finally, on 15 January, thousands of people will flock to Linkeroever, when piles of Christmas trees go up in flames accompanied by music and a fire show. Monique Philips

www.antwerpen.be

• Feest in 't Stad, 11 Dec, 18.00
• Music for Life, Groenplaats, 18-24 Dec
• Christmas market and skating rinks, Grote Markt & Steenplein, 11 Dec - 2 Jan
• Zoo open on 25/12
• Fireworks on the Scheldt, 31 Dec, midnight
• Mayor's New Year's Drink (free!), 9 Jan,
• 11.00-14.00
• Christmas Tree Burning and Fire Show, 15 Jan,
• Linkeroever, from 17.00

GHENT: Bigger is better

The largest ice rink, the tallest big wheel and a brand new festival can be found in Ghent

Ghent expands its Christmas market and fair this year in a major way, launching the festival Winterdroom (Winter Dream) in Sint-Pietersplein, the city's largest square. While the old-fashioned Christmas market remains in the centre of the city, Sint-Pietersplein - in the student district - hosts a much-expanded ice skating area, a funfair, an event tent with daily performances and a consumer-oriented winter village with themes changing weekly. Last weekend found residents checking out Austrian ski vacations, this week it moves into gastronomy from several European regions. The winter village also hosts food and drink stalls, naturally.

The funfair in Ghent boasts the tallest big wheel in the country at nearly 56 metres, just a few metres shy of the height of the city's famous book tower. Sint-Pietersplein is the highest spot in the city, so the view from the top of the wheel is magnificent.

The city's summer Comedy Festival, meanwhile, hosts a winter edition in the on-site event tent, where you'll also find family-friendly theatre and concerts. Later in the evening, DJs spin for a bit more grown-up fun.

Finally, Ghent welcomes 2011 with the annual New Year's Drink on 9 January, which, despite the always-freezing temperatures, brings thousands to Sint-Baafsplein. It could be a desperate need to wish each other a very happy new year, but we suspect it has something to do with all that free beer and glüwein. Lisa Bradshaw

www.winterdroom.be

• Christmas Market, 10-30 Dec, Sint-Baafsplein
• Winterdroom Festival, until 16 Jan, Sint-Pietersplein
• Nieuwjaarsdrink, 9 Jan, from 11.00, Sint-Baafsplein

BRUSSELS: Abundance of riches

There are markets scheduled in several communes of Brussels

Though Antwerp, as always, puts on the best winter schedule in the land, nobody beats Brussels in pure size of the Christmas Market. With 240 stalls across three major squares, connected by streets dazzling with lights, it's a winter wonderland if there ever was one.

To avoid the children and the carnival rides, stick to the Beurs area, where crafts and glüwein rein. To jump right in with your kids, go directly to Sint-Katelijn, where you can hardly miss the big wheel, skating rink and toboggan run at one end, funky merry-go-round at the other. (Hold out to get a seat in the rocket - it's worth it.)

If you are worried that the grand and glorious Grote Markt is getting left out, don't — the jaw-dropping nightly light show and giant Christmas tree are there throughout the month.

While Brussels' main Christmas Market is superb, many of the communes are throwing their own holiday bashes. Particularly intriguing is Anderlecht's KristMasMarKeT, with handmade gifts by young designers. Elsene has an event on Flageyplein, Sint-Jans-Molenbeek on the grounds of Karreveld Castle, and Sint-Lambrechts-Woluwe hosts Father Christmas and live entertainment. LB

www.winterwonders.be

• City Centre Christmas market, until 2 Jan, Beurs, Sint-Katelijneplein, Vismarkt
• KristMasMarKeT, until 19 Dec, Atelier à Partager, Anderlecht
• Elsene Christmas Market, 10-12 Dec, Flageyplein
• Sint-Lambrecths-Woluwe Christmas Village, 10-12 Dec, Sint-Lambertusplein
• Sint-Jans-Molenbeek, 10-12 Dec, Karreveld castle

BRUGES: Out from in the cold

A dazzling ice sculpture festival is the highlight of winter in Bruges

We won't lie to you: it is cold in there. You might even feel the need to come outside to get warm. But Bruges' annual Ice Sculpture Festival is a wondrous display of artistry and the only place in the country you can get a whiskey served in a glass made of ice.

The theme this year is Around the World, with 74 monuments and cultural heritage from 30 countries. So carved from giant blocks of ice are Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Colosseum, bullfighting and plenty of local recognitions, such as Bruges' belfry, Antwerp guild houses and, of course, the manneken pis.

Towards the centre of Bruges lies the annual Christmas market, spread across three locations. And this year continues the city's fantastic Brrr...ugge Winter Nights, with multi-media performances of music, dance and fire spectacles in the mediaeval atmosphere in and around Arentshof. LB

www.winterinbrugge.be

• Brrr...ugge Winter Nights, every Monday and Wednesday from 19.30, until 22 December, Arentshof
• Christmas Markets, until 2 Jan, Markt, Simon Stevinplein & Walplein
• Ice Sculpture Festival, until 16 Jan, train station
• www.icesculpture.be