We’ve checked out a great number and discovered that visiting the insides of these monumental structures is only half the advantage. The grounds and surrounding areas of castles are often gorgeous landscapes. For the next five weeks, we’ll explore the beauty around one castle in each of Flanders’ five provinces, by foot or bike. We begin this week in Limburg.
Though you might picture an imposing stone building with turrets and a moat, today’s definition of a kasteel (castle) is somewhat loose. It can either be a fortified palace or an old country mansion. The age of Belgian castles varies widely, too – some date from the 11th century, but more often they originate in the 18th or 19th centuries.
Many of Belgium’s castles are in rural areas with extensive gardens and woodland paths. Often, the buildings themselves are private (as some still serve as residences), but domains surrounding the castles are sometimes open to the public.
Limburgers have a historic castle with a brewery in their midst. The Kasteelbrouwerij Ter Dolen is in Helchteren, a village located about 15 kilometres north of Hasselt.
The moated, Renaissance-style castle was built by the Abbots of Sint-Truiden. Its foundations date back to the 11th century, but it was rebuilt in the 16th. The castle now serves as a bed and breakfast, and its adjoining farm has been turned into a successful brewery.
The route
Unfortunately and somewhat ironically (since the name, beer label and website all prominently picture the castle), the castle and its gardens are private, cordoned off from the brewery and surrounding by leafy trees. If you want a good view of it, you can book a stay in the bed and breakfast. Alternatively, arrange a private tour of the brewery and request that it include a walk through the castle gardens. You can buy a map of the eight-kilometre Ter Dolen wandelroute (walking route) at the brewery or just follow the white, hexagonal signs marked with a number 4. It’s also possible to bike this route. Most of it is paved and connects up with Limburg’s extensive fietsnetwerk (cycle network). The route takes you through some pretty, forested areas that border Helchteren.
The path begins right outside the brewery on the lovely tree-lined Eikendreef (oak lane). Follow Eikendreef west, and you’ll cross the busy N715/Grote Baan and continue in a residential area on Broekstraat. Take a right down the next dirt road and follow the path on the right. A sign indicates that this is a private road, but I was assured by one of the area residents that it was okay. (I soon saw the next route sign and confirmed that I was on the right path.)
After a short while, the road veers left. According to the map, the path runs between Grote Winterbeek and Sonnisbeek here. Beek translates to “stream”, but the water isn’t visible from the path.
Next make a right at Weg naar Spikkelspade, then two left turns – at Heerkensweg and then Loerstraat. The path is paved here for a while and then it turns to dirt. Watch carefully for the signs. Here starts the most beautiful part of the route. The path is lined with leafy deciduous trees and pines in vibrant shades of green. Next the path turns right. As you move onto a dirt path lined with birch, lush scenery envelops you.
You soon head left and hit pavement again. This section of the route is designated as accessible for buggies and wheelchairs (and even the dirt path here is paralleled by a paved bike path).
You’ll then cross the busy Helzoldstraat and return to the safety of the woods and a dirt path once on the other side. There are many trees here interspersed with some open fields. Soon there will be a pine forest on your left and a group of houses on the right. You’ll cross the N715 again and head back into the woods. This area, with its dirt road may be a little bit muddy. You’ll pass a pasture with adorable minipaardjes te koop (mini ponies for sale) on your left.
Continue on Vennestraat back into a more residential area of town. Make a left at Maastrichtsestraat, Kerkstraat and then Bosstraat, which takes you all the way back to Eikendreef to complete the loop.
The brewery
The Ter Dolen brewery has a lovely, enclosed courtyard that even includes a little play area for the kids. I advise you to do your walking or biking ride before you decide to sit down there because it’s the kind of place you’ll be tempted to linger in all day.
Ter Dolen makes four beers: Ter Dolen Blond Abbey (6%), Ter Dolen Dark (7%), Ter Dolen Tripel (8%) and Ter Dolen Kriek (4.5%). The blond is a refreshing and slightly sweet session beer, perfect for warm, summer weather drinking. The dark is slightly sweet with a caramely flavour and hints of coffee. But the tripel was my favourite – sweet, malty notes as well as a lemony citrus flavour and some slight, hoppy bitterness.
You can get the usual snacks to go with your beer, but I recommend the kaasplank Ter Dolen. This hearty portion of locally made cheese (ripened with Ter Dolen Blond) is served with spicy mustard. The velvety cheese is rich but mild in taste and pairs nicely with any of the brews.
Every Saturday and Sunday at 15.00 there are brewery tours in Dutch that include historical information about the castle. Groups of 15 or more can book tours in English.
The closest rail stop to Ter Dolen is Zolder, which is an easy eight-kilometre bike ride, much of it car-free. Just head towards knooppunt (junction) 316 from the station. Then follow path 308 and make a right at junction 309 towards 76. Ter Dolen is located between junctions 309 and 76.
Opportunities for biking abound in the castle’s vicinity. Check with the Houthalen- Helchteren tourist office for additional routes
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