Reality check: that is what a big city is like. And we only have one of those. Life is too long not to discover how well Brussels, amidst all the hustle, manages to retain its individuality and colour. In just one visit, you come across some amazing people and incre- dibly diverse neighbourhoods, all gravitating around a bustling historic centre. The whole world is right here. For cosmopolitans, one- day tourists and its one million residents, only Brussels will do.

Life is too short to attempt cycling in Brussels, but everyone enjoys ambling down the steep streets and concrete stairways from uptown Louizalaan to downtown Grote Markt. And how uplifting a ride on a creaking tram to the Duden Park can be. Or, if you prefer the downside of things, you can descend to the underground Coudenberg palace, the hidden Zenne or the Sewer Museum.

Brussels' hilly cityscape also reflects the ups and downs of our national history. Wars won, battles lost. Lord Byron was accused of chopping off the noses of the statues in Waran- depark. "So sorry Sir, it turned out Prince Metternich did it." (The noses have since been restored.)

Temporary imprisonment, meanwhile, was the fate of Paul Verlaine for shooting Arthur Rimbaud in the wrist at a Brussels hotel. Cesare Lombroso wrote his famous "L'uomo delinquente", in which he suggests a clas- sification of criminals by the shape of their heads (physiognomy), right here in Brussels. In Brussels, there's always merriment to be found in madness, beauty in ugliness, harmony in discord, creativity in bureau- cracy and a vibrant café culture in its heart of loneliness.

On your journey, you will probably notice its overall mismatched architecture. Gorgeous Art Nouveau townhouses are mirrored in gruesomely shiny HQs. For some, this reflects a typical culture of incompetence and bribery. Others see a charming tolerance of incompetence and bribery. Live and let live is the motto, even if the list of monstrously mismanaged sites grows and grows. "But, hey, did we kill somebody? No. So, what's your point?"

A politician and wise man - he didn't live in Belgium but passed by - once said: "A country with only one language is a poor country." Brussels' inhabitants seem to agree, as they don't mind eating their biefstuk frites in an Italian restaurant run by Turks who think you won't detect the waiter's Polish accent. As long as the food is good and the multilingual menu provides enough spelling mistakes to snigger about, we'll be back.

Be sure to enjoy Brussels many sights, museums and palaces and rave about its comic books and surrealism, but don't forget to visit a corner grocery shop or a crooked frituur as well. Just open doors to hidden courtyards, wipe your feet and step in.

I'd say that where countless urbanist ploys have failed miserably, starting with King Leopold megalomania, it's the people of Brussels who have succeeded in keeping the city liveable and likeable. They love their town. They enjoy flocking to its squares and discuss the news of the day over a pint of beer and newspapers from all over the world. They might not consider themselves the throbbing heart of European politics, but they do moni- tor the world's pulse. And when yet another street is torn down, they do react.

Modesty is the problem. When Brussels revamped their canal, for instance, they did a superb job and let the people enjoy it. No big circus. So maybe it's not a problem, modesty. I rather like it.