The Castle Marnix de Saint-Aldegonde dates all the way back to the ninth century This striking, fortified castle was first built on the banks of the Old Scheldt River and served as considerable protection against invading Normans. But the stronghold was lost when the river switched its course in the 13th century.
Since 1789, the castle has been in the possession of the descendents of Philip of Marnix, lord of Saint- Aldegonde. Philip was a writer and politician. He served as secretary to Prince William of Orange, was mayor of Antwerp and is often credited as author of the Dutch national anthem. The castle has an exhibition dedicated to this fascinating man’s history.
The Scheldeland knooppuntennetwerk (junction network) makes it incredibly easy to navigate walks in the region. Like the many bike networks around Flanders, you can simply write down the numbers of the various junctions and let these guide you on your route. The already-planned Oude Scheldewandeling (Old Scheldt walk) is a 10-kilometre loop that meanders along both the old and new courses of the Scheldt and takes you through some of the area’s most gorgeous green spaces.
Begin your walk at Het Landhuis, an old castle in Bornem that houses tourist information for the area. The staff are very friendly and helpful. You can buy a walking map here as well as other various guides and brochures.
Head west from Het Landhuis towards junction 1 and then continue on towards 5. You’ll walk first along the edge of a small lake. Tread carefully here – the grassy path is right next to the water, and I had to be cautious of crossing ducklings. On summer weekends, this is a very popular spot for anglers as well.
Past the lake, you’ll find a boardwalk through a wooded area and then you arrive at junction 5. Next head towards 21. You’ll walk along a red brick path that is for both walkers and cyclists. Some of the route is lined with tall deciduous trees.
On your left, you can catch glimpses of the Old Scheldt. Here along Temsesteenweg, you’ll see a series of adorable summer cottages on the water.
Near junction 21, you have a nice picnic spot on your right and on your left is Het Sas (the lock) an impressive old link between the new and old courses of the Scheldt. Het Sas was originally built in 1592 under the direction of Spanish nobleman Pedro Coloma (who also owned and rebuilt the castle itself). The lock has since been renovated. The charming Restaurant Het Sas is adjacent to the lock.
This paved path also has a lot of bike traffic. It’s mostly farmland – fields on our left and the new Scheldt to your right. After you pass a flock of sheep, you’ll get to the café De Snep. This is junction 22. Left off the path and down the hill is junction 27. You’ll turn left just before a pretty pond adorned with lily pads. Although you can cycle much of the old Scheldt, tall grass and muddy patches make this route a better walk.
Junction 22 is one of the loveliest parts of the walk – a narrow green corridor with both fat-bottomed knot willows and tall, thin trees with flowing foliage. It’s deliciously quiet here. The dominant soundscape is the wind whispering through the woods and the calls of birds.
As you emerge out of the thicket, you’ll see a big field straight ahead. You get a dramatic view of the back of the castle across this open expanse. You’ve also arrived at junction 27.
Keep following the path left towards junction 21. You’ll pass fields, woods, residential areas and a small chapel. From junction 21, you continue back to complete the loop. With a stop for lunch and a steady pace, you’ve logged about 3.5 hours.
The Castle Marnix de Saint-Aldegonde features engravings by Pieter Breughel the Elder as well as collections of lace, antique dolls and furniture. There is also a carriage museum on the site. Groups of 10 or more can request guided tours in English, Dutch or French. The castle is not normally open to individuals, but each Sunday from 22 August to 12 September, anyone can visit.
It’s an easy walk from the Bornem train station to the tourist information office, which is on Boomstraat 1.
’t Sas Café is an excellent place to stop and rest your weary feet. The terrace is conveniently located next to the path, and the wide umbrellas provide ample shade. Here you can enjoy a wonderfully traditional Flemish meal like stoverij (beef stew), vidée (vol-au-vent) or gegratineerd witloof met hesp en puree (endive and ham a gratin, with mashed potatoes). Hint: the menu is printed on an LP jacket; pull out the record to see the house specialties (which are more reasonably priced). And since you are in Bornem, don’t leave without trying the Bornem tripel, a well-balanced and thirst-quenching beer made by Brouwerij Van Steenberge.
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