Why visit an arboretum in winter? Because trees – especially this arboretum’s giant sequoias and coastal redwoods – look even more majestic when covered with frost or snow.
The Geographical Arboretum of Tervuren is located just a few kilometres east of Brussels but, once within its confines, you’ll feel as if you’re kilometres away from anywhere. King Leopold II founded the arboretum in 1902. The initial landscape planning is attributed to Charles Bommer, who was then the curator of the National Botanical Gardens (now at Meise) and a professor at the Free University of Brussels.
The Royal Trust manages the park and maintenance is provided by the Flemish forest service. The arboretum is unique in Belgium – and in Europe – because of its formidable size and unique design. Trees in the 100-hectare woodland are organised by geographical origin rather than species. The idea is to help visitors experience the diverse varieties of trees in an atmosphere that is more akin to their native environment.
The origins of the more than 450 tree varieties span Europe, Asia, North Africa and the Americas. The arboretum is divided into “Old World” and “New World” sections. The Old World trees, in the eastern portion of the park, are indigenous to Europe and Asia, and even include a few varieties from Algeria. To the west, appropriately enough, are the New World trees of (mainly) North America. This section also features a notable variety from Chile, the Araucaria, more commonly known as the Monkey-puzzle tree (pictured below).
It had just snowed when I visited in early January, and it was quite the winter wonderland. The snow-covered conifers were breathtaking, and a number of visitors took advantage by donning skis. A couple of the hills were swarming with excited children, sleds in tow.
The arboretum’s natural soundscape is sometimes punctuated by planes from Brussels Airport, which tends to draw you back to civilization, but otherwise the senses are overwhelmed by stunning scenery, the scent of pine needles and the chattering of birds.
Start your winter walk in the west at the main parking lot off Vlaktedreef with the impressive New World evergreens. Trails are easily apparent, but there’s not much for signage, so be sure to bring a map, which you can print online or pick up at the Tervuren tourist office. The different tree types are numbered, so you can identify each species from the online map.
The trails are generally easy with some sloping hills, making the arboretum a great place for a family outing. If you’re looking for a short walk, do the (roughly) three-kilometre loop around the New World section. You’ll see stately firs from the Pacific Northwest of the US, as well as the extraordinary Monkey-puzzle and renowned California redwoods (photo right). If you want to see more, try the Koninklijke Wandeling, or Royal Promenade for a tour of seven kilometres through the whole park.
As in most natural areas of Flanders in winter, the trails can be snowy, wet and muddy, and so a good pair of boots is recommended. Entry to the arboretum and surrounding woods is free, but you won’t find on-site information or toilets. Walking is the best way to experience the park, as bikes are only allowed on the Kapucijnendreef (and there is no bike parking). If you bring a dog, it must be on-leash.
get a map?
This unofficial site offers a wealth of information (in five languages) about the arboretum and includes a map, detailed tree brochure and suggested walking routes.
The Tervuren tourist office sells a guidebook on the arboretum and offers a basic map that can be downloaded from their website. They also sell more detailed, topographical maps of Het Zoniënwoud, or the Sonian forest, of which the arboretum is a part. Markt 7, Tervuren
get there?
The easiest way to reach the arboretum is by car. Get to Tervuren via the Brussels ring road east, exit N3 Tervuren–Leuven. This main crossroads is known locally as the “Quatre Bras /Vier Armen” (four arms). After three kilometres, turn right into the village at the traffic lights and follow the Arboretum signs. From Brussels centre, you can reach the Vier Armen by following the Tervurenlaan all the way. The main access to the collections of the New World is located on the Vlaktedreef, which is a continuation of the Jezus-Eiklaan (parking area near the entrance).
By public transport: Take tram 44 from Montgomery underground station in the direction Tervuren Station. It’s a scenic ride that crosses through part of the Sonian forest. Get off at the Quatre Bras /Vier Armen stop and cross to the opposite corner of the intersection. Walk about 20 meters and take Ravensteindreef (on your right), which will bring you to the main entrance of the Arboretum in about 20 minutes.
After a couple of hours of winterwandeling, don’t hesitate to check out the village of Tervuren. Its charming market square features a number of cafes and restaurants. Den Engel is a cosy pub at 21 Kerkstraat (just off the market square) with a menu featuring classic Belgian snacks. It also has a good selection of beers and drinks that will heat you up from the inside like Hasseltse koffie (coffee with jenever) and warme wijn (mulled wine).
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