When it comes to leisure time, the Flemish can usually be found diving headlong into the nearest pool, lake or sea-water as soon as the temperatures edge just a teeny bit above freezing.

A tour of the region's pools is like taking a step back in time as many of them have retained their original architecture. These are places to relax and soak up the beautiful atmosphere rather than just functional swimming pools.

The Van Eyck swimming pool was built in 1886 and was Flanders' first covered bathing spot. It's a mixture of architectural styles and was originally built so the people of Ghent would have somewhere to wash. In the 19th century, the water in the canals and rivers was unsanitary, especially given the dense population of Flemish cities. "This was a place where people could go to take a bath. That was the main purpose," explains Danny Lamont from Ghent's sports promotion division.

Even today, the Van Eyck pool retains its Zen atmosphere. "The purpose now is to keep it quiet and for swimmers to enjoy the environment," says Lamont. "It's a place for people to search for some tranquillity."

Over in Brussels, citizens were also struggling to find clean water in which to bathe, so in 1854 the Brussels Baths opened in the Marollen district. Like the Van Eyck complex, it was originally a bath house, an essential after the city's river Zenne was covered over following a cholera outbreak.

The city authorities agreed in 1946 to build a sports complex on the site, which is just off the Vossemplein (site of the famous flea market). It is now home to an elegant swimming pool, dubbed at the time the most modern building in the area, which has a view over the city from its ample windows.

Aside from the older bathing houses, a bunch of new swimming pools were opened in the 1980s when the Flemish government launched a campaign to have one in every village.

As well as the indoor treasures, there are many purpose-built outdoor bathing spots, including the Hofstade-Plage in the commune of Zemst between Brussels and Mechelen. It was built as a holiday destination for those who couldn't afford to travel abroad. During the 20th century, while Belgium's rich headed to the coast to fancy hotels and apartments, the working classes were given these cheaper alternatives. The complex is closed at the moment for renovations.

Aside from taking a dip in the region's many artificial lakes and coastal spots, some foolhardy Flemish have been known to swim in Limburg's gravel pits, a dangerous venture which is now prohibited by the authorities as many people have been killed in these unpredictable waters.

There have also been many deaths over the years in the quarry lakes where scuba diving enthusiasts trained. But in May 2004, Nemo33 opened in the Brussels commune of Ukkel, offering divers a safe alternative to the disused quarry lakes were they had previously honed their skills.

"The only deep places in Belgium are the stone quarries which are muddy. To dive in these conditions is very dangerous. Before Nemo, there used to be one or two deaths a year," explains Nemo founder and diving aficionado John Beernaerts.

He explains his joy of diving: "To be like a fish, of course. And to be disconnected. All the senses you have in the water are very particular. But as well as doing it for the feeling, the science and technology are both very interesting."

Belgium looks set to benefit commercially from its expertise, as Beernaerts says there are about 1,000 projects for diving pools in other cities around the world that are being modelled on Nemo33.

Considering the architectural heritage of Flanders' indoor pools, it's a shame they are not really utilised by tourists. Explains Jan Turf of the Flemish Federation for a Better Environment: "Swimming in natural water is what you do when you are on holiday."

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