Although the Netherlands is considered the land of windmills, their origins probably lie a bit farther south. The first reliable historical reference dates back to 1183, to a mill in Wormhout, which is now part of French Flanders but then belonged to the County of Flanders.
As a wealthy and densely populated region, the technical prowess and resources to innovate the milling techniques were available here. Both windmills and watermills are abundant in the history and landscape of West and East Flanders.
Two hundred years ago, there were nearly 3,000 working windmills and hundreds of working watermills in Flanders. These small “factories” forged iron, pressed oil, sawed wood, manufactured paper and, of course, milled grain. But after the Industrial Revolution introduced steam and diesel engines in the 19th century, mills were no longer economically competitive. Then during the First World War, many of them were damaged by the military, as they made excellent vantage points.
In the 1970s, however, Flemish artists and pioneers such as the judge Paul Bauters put mills in the spotlight as cultural symbols of the region. This appreciation created a growing enthusiasm around mills that led to the establishment of mill associations. Molenforum-Vlaanderen now saves mills from ruin, offers advice on restoration, holds open days for the public and transmits the experience of millers through study courses.
Today, Flanders has approximately 250 active mills. “About 70 of them are in West Flanders, where the vicinity of the coast provides excellent windy conditions,” says Frank De Craeke, president of mill association Werkgroep West-Vlaamse Molens. In East Flanders, watermills are more numerous, because of the hilly landscape.
This year, the Flemish organisation for heritage conservation Herita collaborated with the province of West Flanders, the city of Damme and construction company Vlassak-Verhulst to restore the windmill in the Hoeke district. Miller Filip Devoldere now shows visitors around the monument, located not far from the coast.
“One person can actually run a mill through an ingenious system of ropes and delicate mechanisms,” Devoldere explains. “The basic technology was invented at the end of the 11th century and remained unchanged for about 800 years.”
“It’s not simple to restore these mechanisms,” adds architect Erik De Bruyn, who designed the restoration concept. “You need specialised craftsmen, who are becoming much harder to find.”
Professional millers don’t exist anymore – and haven’t since the 1970s – but volunteer millers are needed to maintain the mills, which deteriorate quickly if they are not active. The courses organised by mill associations ensure that both the infrastructure and history are handed over to the next generation. After theoretical lessons, students complete at least 100 hours of internship sessions at mills. Students finally take an exam under the supervision of two experienced “mill masters”.
The final exam for student Fabienne Cammaert from Denderleeuw took place at the Buyses mill in Sint- Antelinks, East Flanders. “It’s still very much a man’s world, but I will prove that small, slender women are also capable of managing a mill,” Cammaert smiles.
Her first assignment is to ascertain the direction of the wind, which is unfortunately only a slight breeze that afternoon. “While millers in the past could insist that the area around the mill remained empty, today houses and trees are often in the way,” says Alain Goublomme, president of Levende Oost-Vlaamse Molens, the East Flemish mill association.
Wind is a blessing for a miller, but it can also damage and even destroy a mill if a strong storm gathers when it is running. This happened last year in Merkem, West Flanders, where a wooden mill collapsed under the force of a storm. Millers have to be able to predict the weather, without all the modern equipment of professionals. In times gone by, farmers would consult millers before setting out on a trip. “The shape of clouds tells a whole story,” says Cammaert.
Goublomme elaborates on the special status of mills and millers: “They knew everything that happened in the community because everyone needed grain for their bread. The mills also signalled important events, such as births and deaths, with specific settings of the blades.” Their importance is shown by their omnipresence in Flemish proverbs; for example, something is “koren op je molen” (“grist to your mill”) if it is to your advantage.
When the wind picks up for a moment, Cammaert succeeds in grinding a little flour from the grain. “This is why I make all this effort and sacrifice so much time,” she says, letting the flour slip through her fingers. “I am also studying bakery and want to make bread in the authentic way. Back to basics.”
A windmill used to grind grain is the best-known kind of mill, but here are five unusual mills in West and East Flanders. Your best chance of seeing them in full swing is on Sundays.
The rosmolen (horse mill) in the provincial domain of Sint- Michiels in Bruges works on horse (ros) power.
The getijdenmolen (tide mill) in Rupelmonde on a branch of the River Scheldt is the only remaining tide mill in Flanders, built in 1561.
’t Waterkot watermill, built in the 16th century in Erembodegem, was equipped with a steam engine in 1889. The mill now produces electricity for its own use.
Pompmolentje Casier in Waregem is a reconstruction of a wooden mill built in the 19th century to provide the ponds of Casier park with water from the Gaverbeek. It’s the only remaining 19th-century pump-windmill in Flanders.
With a first historical reference in 1316, Hoosmolen in Drongen, a district of Ghent, is probably the first polder mill in the world, used to pump water away from low-lying areas of land. Inside, info panels explain the history and technique of polder mills.
Want to know more? Visit Mola, the provincial mill centre at Puyenbroeck Castle in Wachtebeke, East Flanders. Or create your own mill route, with the maps of the Werkgroep West-Vlaamse Molens or Levende Oost-Vlaamse Molens.
www.wwmolens.be
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