Bite - ’t Apertje
The Damme Canal is worth a visit all on its own. The idyllic waterway lined with swaying poplar trees is a favourite thoroughfare for pleasure boaters between Damme and Bruges. During a sunny pre-dinner walk, my partner and I are passed by multiple lycra-clad cyclists and day-trippers on horse and buggy.
****
When we feel we’ve sufficiently earned our meal, we sit down on the terrace of ’t Apertje ( from the word haperen, to stay for a while) which boasts a view of the outstretched polder landscape dotted with church towers and rows of knotted willows.
Filip, our kindly server, delivers fat radishes and marinated green olives to our table with a bottle of sparkling water. It’s early, but inside we see owners Leo and Véronique Callewaert getting ready for what is sure to be another busy shift, with Leo working magic in the kitchen, while Véronique hosts. After 20 years in the business, they’ve mastered this routine.
Deciding what to order proves easy, thanks to the seasonal bistro menu, which changes every three weeks. It gives a choice of three starters and three main courses, finished off with either dessert or cheese and comes to just €35 per person (or €52 with aperitif, wine and coffee).
On this summery evening, our picks go to the artichoke and tomato with shrimp starters, followed by main dishes of lamb navarin and royal bream.
Across the table a giant artichoke arrives accompanied by a simple yet divine bowl of creamy vinaigrette. My partner pulls off the hardy, dark green leaves one by one, sliding them between his teeth to get at the fleshy base. As he gets closer to the middle of the artichoke, the edible part becomes bigger and tastier, culminating at the almost meat-like heart. The lemony dipping sauce is a perfect match.
My tomato and shrimp dish is a work of art, with red, orange and yellow cherry tomato halves scattered about the plate alongside lovely pink North Sea shrimp, hard-boiled egg, rocket salad and tangy vinaigrette. The shrimp – hand-peeled – are full-flavoured and juicy, while the just-ripe tomatoes are equally succulent.
When my lamb navarin (a French lamb stew) arrives, I am overjoyed by the sight of it. Inside the deep bowl is a tomato-red stock filled with chunks of lamb and a variety of summer veg, including green asparagus, plump peas, carrots, green beans and a few tender potatoes. The delicate meat is practically falling apart in the savoury stew, which is still surprisingly light enough for this time of year.
Meanwhile, my partner couldn’t be more chuffed with his royal bream, pan-fried to a delectable crackling skin over silky white meat. The pieces of fish lay atop sweet whole shallots and a rich lemon-butter sauce.
For dessert, he indulges in a selection of local white cheeses, ranging in taste and texture from chive-infused and semi-hard to strong and runny. I polish off a gorgeous platter of strawberries from nearby Moerkerke with a scoop of yellow vanilla ice cream, tangy coulis and a sprinkling of crunchy meringue.
Two cappuccinos and €84 later, we’re two very happy and satisfied customers driving along the Damme Canal towards home.
Daamse Vaart Zuid 223, Bruges; 050.35.00.12
12.00-14.00 & 18.00-22.00 Wed-Sun
Mains: €15-€25, seasonal three-course menu €35
Lovely little canal-side bistro with seasonal delicacies and polished classics
About the author
Beer & Food Writer
