Bite - ’t Verschil
As anyone watching the current series of Mijn Restaurant can tell you, it’s sometimes tough to separate a “brasserie” from a “restaurant”. Some locals from Aalst tried to tell me that ’t Verschil was just your average brasserie, but after seeing it featured in a few magazines, I decided to find out for myself.
’t Verschil is not just your average brasserie
Having made reservations just hours before for a busy Friday night, my dining companion and I feel privileged to be getting the last available table, a little two-seater in the side dining room. After an aperitif of cava (a bit pricy at €7), we order a bottle of Chilean wine with an Italian name. Balduzzi is a robust, 14% cabernet sauvignon that tastes of dark red cherries, leather and spices. It pairs perfectly with all four courses.
We both opt for the Gourmand Menu at €35 per person because we’re in the mood for some proper autumn fare – wild game. The first course consists of thinly sliced venison fillet, bright red with smidgeons of goose liver cream, tart little redcurrant berries and virgin olive oil. This combination in itself is exciting, but then there’s rocket salad, freshly ground black pepper and wispy fried onion on top to complete the irresistible dish.
It’s already apparent that this is not your average brasserie, which explains the name ’t Verschil, or the difference. Sure, chef Peter Maertens puts classic dishes on the menu such as lasagne and Irish rib-eye, but there are plenty more refined, creative items as well, such as saddle of hare. The recipes are never too complex, though, because he likes to keep his food pure and simple, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves.
We start to fully appreciate his philosophy as we tuck into the second course. Mine is a bowl of wild pigeon consommé, a clear stock rich in flavour and accentuated with bits of lightly pickled pigeon breast, carrot, courgette and floating puffs of parmesan. It’s light and delicious, but I am admittedly envious of the other second course at the table: buttery soft scallops that have been lightly crisped on the outside on a tepanyaki grill. Underneath are a rich slice of Duke of Berkshire pork belly bacon – sweet and salty at the same time – and creamy cauliflower puree with hazelnut butter.
Understandably, the third course has a hard time competing with the first two. The pheasant hen is slightly dry, but the surrounding Orval sauce, sprouts, homemade almond croquettes and velvety orange butternut squash more than make up for it.
On to dessert: I enjoy a mason jar filled with green grapes marinated in Veuve Clicquot Champagne and lemon balm, with a scoop of Veuve Clicquot sorbet and crunchy, caramelised puffed rice. Across from me, a spoon dives into a long-stemmed glass of caramel-chocolate mousse with white chocolate snow and fresh mint leaves. Apparently the portions get bigger with every course, as we find it difficult to finish off these amazing desserts.
When my dining companion asks for a tea, our smiling server brings over no less than ten tins of loose-leaf varieties from local tea and coffee specialist OR. My coffee is from the same shop and comes served with a brownie, chocolate beads and a silver antique cream and sugar set.
Finally, the €120 bill confirms for us that this is a restaurant, not a brasserie. But we still walk away positively content.
Gentsestraat 70, Aalst
0474.98.16.98
Mon-Tues, Thurs-Fri 12.00-14.30
Wed 12.00-14.30; Sat 18.00-22.00
Mains: €17-€32
Attentive service and classic brasserie fare mixed with refined, season-inspired dishes
Contact Bite at [email protected]
About the author
Beer & Food Writer
