Bite - ’t Vertier

Summary

I would probably never be driving to Meldert on a Friday evening if it weren’t for my foodie friend with a penchant for locating the most obscure places to eat and drink across rural Flanders. Thanks to her, I find myself standing on this snow-covered village square, gazing at its quietly striking gothic church and surrounding cemetery. A district of Aalst, Meldert’s only restaurant is also its only sign of life, and it’s aglow and inviting on this freezing night.

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I would probably never be driving to Meldert on a Friday evening if it weren’t for my foodie friend with a penchant for locating the most obscure places to eat and drink across rural Flanders. Thanks to her, I find myself standing on this snow-covered village square, gazing at its quietly striking gothic church and surrounding cemetery. A district of Aalst, Meldert’s only restaurant is also its only sign of life, and it’s aglow and inviting on this freezing night.
© Jo De Coninck
 
© Jo De Coninck

Owners Monica and Steven welcome me with a smile as I pick out a table for two. The place has a local cafe feel to it, with a lovely encaustic tiled floor and wooden tables and chairs. The atmosphere is relaxed, and even more so when a young boy takes my beer order. (It’s okay, he’s the owners’ son).

As soon as my Witkap Stimulo arrives, so does my dining companion. And she’s thirsty for a local brew: an Affligem dubbel from the abbey down the road. On the menu are snacks to go with your drink, like cheese and salami; quick bites, like croques and pancakes; and full-scale meals like steak and scampi. They also have an extra menu that changes with the seasons. On this January day, it includes venison, wild duck and boar stew.

I don’t have to think twice about my order when I see pork cheeks in Affligem sauce. My companion plumps for the ribs, as she’s had them here before and still hasn’t stopped going on about it. We receive a unique snack while we wait: fresh North Sea shrimp. We have fun catching up as we peel and devour the juicy little morsels. When it’s time for another drink, we go for one more Affligem and an Orval. These pair very well, it turns out, with our mains. The ribs are just as messy, well-seasoned and tender as my friend remembers. They come with a sweet-sour barbecue sauce, oven-baked potato wedges and a crisp salad.

My dish of pork cheeks (an oft-overlooked cut which, when prepared properly, can be incredibly moist) is melt-away delicious in a flavourful dark beer sauce with tender carrots and mushrooms. It comes in a little cast-iron pot, from which I refill my plate a few times (and still end up having some to take home). The accompanying pile of puree is silky and buttery. A sprinkling of crunchy spring onion adds the finishing touch.

We’re full, but not too full for dessert. It’s hard to resist when one of my favourite desserts is on the menu. The moelleux is warm and gooey, chocolate oozing out of the middle. It comes with a scoop of golden vanilla ice cream and tuft of whipped cream. This dessert, together with a perfectly pulled coffee and a mere €60 bill, is a nice way to round off the evening.

www.tvertier.be


Dorp 1, Meldert (Aalst); 0476.51.00.28
Thurs-Fri 11.00-22.00; Sat 14.00-22.00; Sun 10.00-22.00
Mains: €10-€15
Friendly, family-run restaurant with a nostalgic feel and hearty Flemish fare

Bite - ’t Vertier

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