Flanders’ most famous cycle path network tried and tested

Unlike other Flemish provinces, Limburg doesn’t have famous battlefields or “art cities” (such as Bruges, Ghent and Leuven) to attract tourists. So it has done a lot to promote the bike path network, albeit primarily in Dutch.

There’s a handy map of the entire network and maps of several themed routes available for purchase, and a new, free smartphone app to help cyclists find the best routes and discover points of interest along the way.

I’ve long been a fan of the cycle paths around my hometown of Hasselt. I have my favourite routes, and I often take visiting friends on bike rides into the countryside. This summer, I decided it was time to explore the path network beyond Hasselt, so I signed up for one of the cycling events organised this year as part of the 20th-anniversary celebrations – the first-ever Limburg Fietsvierdaagse (Limburg Four-Day Cycle Event).

Earlier this month, cyclists could choose from three routes of different lengths in and around Lanaken, a town on the Meuse river next to the Dutch border. Participants were also encouraged to visit points of interest along the route, with free admission and guided tours included as added incentives.

But I knew that if I was going to make it to Day Four, I needed to pace myself. I’d never done anything like this, and cycling four days in a row was going to be a challenge.

The map of the route consisted of a series of junction numbers, with symbols indicating places where the route deviated from the network, or where there was a point of interest that could be visited.

Each route also included one or two checkpoints where you had to get your card stamped. All three routes started and ended at the same point each day, with the longer routes simply adding more junctions and following progressively wider loops.

I followed the yellow arrows from the community centre until I joined up with the bike path network. The route took me out of the city centre along the Zuid-Willemsvaart, which soon fed into the Albert Canal. Eventually the path ascended to the top of a dyke alongside the canal, giving me a beautiful vantage point over the water and surrounding landscape.

It wasn’t long before I realised why all those 55-plussers were keen to do the 60km route. They whizzed past me on their electric bikes, while I huffed and puffed on my seven-speed. As they passed me, I envied them the greater range their motors gave them, but I consoled myself with feeling virtuous for doing it old school, on pure muscle.

Near the end of my route, I passed through another gateway to the National Park, Pietersheim in Lanaken. The Waterburcht there was another featured attraction, and I was excited to explore the 12th-century water fort for the first time. A tour of the site, which also served as an aristocratic residence and hunting lodge over the centuries, was the perfect way to end a lovely ride.

The next day’s route passed through some of the most interesting scenery and included an attraction along the way that was as fun as it was unexpected. I cycled north from Lanaken to Oud-Rekem, a picturesque and historic village with cobblestoned streets and a handsome Renaissance castle in the middle of town. From there, the bike path skirted the Meuse, with stunning views over the river valley and surrounding countryside.

But this was also the day the weather took a turn for the worse. A stiff wind made pedalling difficult, and at times I struggled to make progress, despite putting my bike in the lowest gear. Rain showers only added insult to injury. This is the downside to cycling in Flanders: the climate is unpredictable at best, challenging at worst.

I was already beginning to feel defeated by the gusting wind when I spotted a banner directing me to De Nostalgie agricultural museum, located down a nondescript residential street. I groaned to myself. Did I just push my aching quads all this way to see some guy’s collection of old tractors? Still, I needed a break so I resigned myself to taking a quick look.

Well, De Nostalgie turned out to be one of the highlights of the whole experience. Ivo Smeets, the proprietor, has amassed an astounding collection of vintage farm tools, farm equipment and yes, tractors, but also vintage bikes, toys, kitchenware and all sorts of household items. What makes the museum special is how everything is displayed: in artfully arranged vignettes evoking Flemish life of yesteryear.

On Friday, my route passed by the new Second World War museum at the bridge in Vroenhoven before continuing through the fields of Haspengouw.

By the end of Day Four, I felt I had a good grasp of what makes Limburg’s bike path network so successful. For one thing, it’s a great way to explore a given area. Because the network is so extensive, you can reach every corner of the province and discover hidden gems that you might not have visited otherwise, while the main tourist attractions and historical sites are well signposted.

It’s easy to use and adaptable to every type of cyclist, from the serious enthusiast with a racing bike to families with kids. The network is well-maintained so the biking is effortless and enjoyable, and the paths are mostly car-free, or along back roads where you encounter few vehicles.

But mostly, it’s fun. There’s lots to see and do along the way, and you’re never far from a bike-friendly cafe. I can think of no better way to spend a summer afternoon – weather permitting.