Flemings in New York

No one has exact numbers. And nobody really cares either - least of all the Flemings living there. As one told me: "What is nationality in a city of over eight million coming from every part of the world?"

"It's typical that we Flemings don't know how many of us there are in New York. The French or the Dutch would never be in this situation," smiles Philip Fontaine, director of Flanders House. "But we focus on our national situation instead of keeping an eye on the world."

Fontaine is working on improving Flanders' profile in the big apple through a number of initiatives, including supporting exhibitions like the upcoming James Ensor show at the city's Museum of Modern Art.

But the young expats who've made the massive city their own are not terribly concerned with those efforts. They know they're not known for talking themselves up - and they readily accept it.

"We have never learned to tell the world how good we are," muses Sofia Vandaele, general manager of a W Hotel. "In America, children are stimulated - yes you can! - but in Flanders you don't get much applause for a job well done." The 35-year-old from Roeselare says she is "rarely" asked where she is from, but she does share "the same entrepreneurship and independent way of thinking" as New Yorkers - and that they greatly admire.

And then there's the idea that a lack of knowledge about their homeland is actually an asset. "They all know Belgium, and it has a very positive image," asserts Moenen Erbuer, a graphic designer who has also been living in New York for two years. "Worldwide, only a very small number of people know what a mess Belgium is in right now. Well, let's just keep it like that: let them all think Belgium is a sweet wonderland with chocolate, beer and a good health system."

Not only do most Flemings in New York not show off their roots, they don't much seek out their brethren. Sofia is an exception: "I have a lot of contact with other Flemings. Only people who share the same language and context can understand you. If you ever feel a bit homesick, it's good to be connected."

When the Belgian-American Chamber of Commerce recently organised a Belgian night, a lot of other Flemings showed up, too. "It's a good occasion to sing along with Clouseau hits!"

For many Flemish, there is a distinct advantage to being in one of the arts capitals of the world. "Compared to Belgians, New Yorkers are much more interested in art. And it's not only about the elite, like in our country," says Manuel Geerinck, a Brussels artist who has been in the city for six years. "Here you actually see families visiting galleries and buying art. People want to see everything with their own eyes, and art is no exception." The 40-something thinks this has to do with New York's origins as a city of immigrants. "Immigrants had to rely on themselves, had to be curious and alert, if they wanted to survive."

David Willems, meanwhile, has spent seven years in New York photographing weddings. Not only is there plenty of work, he has a unique view on cultural differences. "In Flanders young married couples turn their back to the photographer because they feel uncomfortable. Here, they jump at the camera! New Yorkers are much more extroverted than we are."

The 38-year-old from Turnhout says they also "make a lot more fuss" of their weddings. "Rehearsal dinners - and even sometimes a speech day. And they all have to be photographed."

By attending a lot of weddings, he says, "you easily see that New York society is organised on the basis of income and race: most marriages are socio-economically homogeneous, and weddings between people from different races are rare."

But what of that famous melting pot? "That's more of a nice utopian idea than a reality," David asserts. "The American Dream is not within reach of everybody - you need at least $40,000 to send your child to a good university, for instance. So people who marry preferably do so in their own or a higher income class."

All these expats may love their region of origin, but not one of them wants to come back anytime soon. "If I was forced to come back, I would settle in Brussels since it's well connected to neighbouring countries," says David. "Because in Belgium, people don't marry anymore!"

Moenen, 24, would only go back if "the dollar crashed. Then the game would be completely over for guys working in publicity, like me. But even then I wouldn't go back home - I would prefer to move to another world city where I would start from scratch again. This gives you such an insight into yourself that I really would like to experience this sensation again of moving to an unknown place."

Aside from professional reasons, it's mainly New York's progressive mentality that keeps our Flemings in the city. "In the whole world, there is no city like New York," says Fontaine. It's also a country, he says, "where a first-generation African-American became president with 60% of his votes coming from whites. I don't see something similar happening in Europe in the next 50 years."

It's in the water, according to Moenen. "New York is surrounded by water. Most cities founded near an ocean or sea have a lot of energy, and I need that. Brussels completely lacks that connection with the water. So I'm pretty sure I'll stay in the city of Moby Dick as long I can!"

WHAT WE MISS FROM FLANDERS
1 "My family - it's only when you live abroad you realise how much you appreciate your parents, brothers and sisters. You have so much in common you can't share with other people."
2 "The bread! They really can't make good bread here."
3 "Royco minute soup, zoetekoeke, chocotoffs and Lotus speculoos."
4 "Relaxed evenings with friends, sharing a good glass of wine after dinner. That's pure luxury here since life is fast and expensive. People are stressed and in a hurry."
5 "The diversity. Within two hours you're in Paris, Amsterdam or London: capitals with very different cultures. Here in America, you have to take a plane to the other side of the country, but the culture remains more or less the same."

WEIRD GUYS THOSE NEW YORKERS
"Differences are fun, and I witness them every day. People who ask ‘can I have chicken with my waffles?' For them it's as normal as can be since this is a well known dish in African-American cuisine; but I would never even think about eating that!" (Thomas De Geest, a Fleming who sells Belgian waffles from his van on the streets of New York)
"People are very direct since they live all together in a small spot. They tell you immediately what they think without losing time. They're polite though."
"Real New Yorkers don't cook - many of them don't even have a real kitchen since their apartments are so very small. They live on the street mainly and go out for lunch and dinner."
"Mind yourself because there's a law for everything. So be very polite to the taxi driver, the garbage man and your teacher. Behave, because before you know it, they sue you."