Kings of the castle

The headquarters of the Teutonic Order is at the Alden-Biesen complex, which is now an official cultural centre of the Flemish Community. Located in Rijkhoven, a district of Bilzen in Limburg province, the Land Commandery of Alden-Biesen is a beautifully restored complex consisting of a moated castle, a chapel and other buildings, along with formal gardens, an English park and ancient orchards. It’s not just a museum of historic architecture: The estate hosts cultural events throughout the year and also functions as a conference centre.

I have been to Alden-Biesen several times, and each time it’s a different experience. The first time was in late summer, and the French gardens were lush and green. I watched the fish swimming in the moat, took a walk in the English park and ate lunch at one of the picnic tables. It was a perfect Sunday afternoon.

In early February, the gardens were covered in snow, and the moat was frozen. My eyes were drawn to the red brick of the buildings and the shapes of the castle’s towers against the sky. I stepped into the chapel to get out of the cold and found myself enjoying its stillness and solitude. I thought about the people who built this place and lived their lives here, long, long ago.

Money and power

In the middle ages, a small chapel stood where Alden-Biesen now stands, at the crossroads of two main trade routes. In 1220, the Count of Loon donated the chapel to a new military order, the Order of the Brothers of the German House of St Mary in Jerusalem, known in English as the Teutonic Knights. The order was founded during the Third Crusade to care for Germanspeaking pilgrims and knights in the Holy Land.

As with other chivalric orders, such as the Knights Templar or the Hospitallers, Teutonic members were drawn from the nobility, who took a vow of celibacy and dedicated themselves to serving the poor. In fact, the Teutonic Order grew into a powerful and wealthy organisation with lands throughout Europe. The Land Commandery Alden-Biesen was their headquarters in the Maasland region and ruled over 12 smaller commanderies.

Like other Catholic organisations, the Teutonic Order lost all its holdings in Flanders when the French took possession at the end of the 18th century. Alden-Biesen was auctioned off to the highest bidder and passed into private ownership for 200 years. Eventually, it fell into disrepair; a documentary from 1964 shows black-and-white footage of an abandoned, neglected site.

Following public outcry, plans were made to sell the castle complex to the government of Flanders. On the last day of negotiations, a fire broke out in the castle (the result of fires lit by the owner in longunused fireplaces). The castle was completely gutted. The authorities went ahead with the purchase and began a programme of restoration that continues to this day.

Nothing human is strange

The current buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The castle has been thoroughly and expertly returned to its former state – several rooms of the Land Commander’s apartment appear as they did in the 18th century. Other buildings have been renovated to reflect their original appearance from the outside but have been put to new uses on the inside.

Former stables and barns now house modern conference rooms, reception areas and accommodation for up to 68 people. The former tenant’s house serves as a tourist information office for the surrounding area, and the entire complex is used for events and exhibitions.

If you visit before 8 April, you’ll find the exhibition Nothing Human is Strange to Me, featuring the work of eight contemporary artists from Belgium, France, Germany, Spain and Chile. The main part of the exhibition is inside the castle, but some pieces are installed around the complex. Colourful fibreglass sculptures by Cristóbal Gabarrón provide a startling contrast to the sombre architecture, while Maggy Jagot’s ethereal wire figures inhabit the outdoor spaces like futuristic ghosts.

Every day, all year long

Other events throughout the year include an International Storytelling Festival (in April), the ever-popular Scottish Weekend (in September) and the holiday Sintpaleis for children (in November). But the best time to really see the grounds and the buildings is when there are no special events and no crowds to distract you from the beauty of the place.

Coming from the car park, you will pass the castle and enter Alden- Biesen through the lower gate. The old guesthouse there is now a brasserie, appropriately named ’t Gasthuis, where you can enjoy a cold drink on the patio in summer, or duck inside for a coffee in winter. They also serve a full menu for lunch and dinner.

Continue walking down the cobblestone lane leading from the gate to pass orchards on your left and the former stables on your right. This road leads to the upper gatehouse, which was once the main entrance to Alden-Biesen and now serves as a nature education centre. It’s at the intersection of several cycling routes, and is a nice place to set off on a hike through the surrounding countryside.

Another gate leads from the cobblestone road into the main complex. Be sure to stop first at the welcome centre, just inside the gate on your left. There you can take in a small exhibition about the history of the Teutonic Order and of Alden-Biesen in multiple languages. Afterwards, take your time exploring the grounds, the castle, the French garden and the chapel.

The site is open all year, and admission is free, except to the castle itself, which is €3 and only open during exhibitions. No matter when you decide to visit, Alden- Biesen has something to offer, whether it’s a glimpse of history, an encounter with art, a stroll in the park or a chance to be alone in the midst of grandeur.

www.alden-biesen.be