Fietsparadijs
With its idyllic landscapes, friendly people and over 2,000 kilometres of bike routes, Limburg is a cyclist’s dream. The province has long been a leader in developing and promoting its vast network of bike routes, attracting some two million bicyclists each year.
Limburg boldly calls itself a “cycling paradise”, and our journo on wheels has a hard time disagreeing
This year Limburg celebrates its 15th anniversary as a self-proclaimed fietsparadijs (cycling paradise) with a host of inspired activities and new, themed routes.
We know that most of you think of Limburg as being a far-off place, with no big city and no important monuments. What Limburg has is a wondrous diversity of nature and some of the most charming small towns in the country. In fact, Limburg is literally oozing with charm.
Limburg is also an example of why it’s a good thing so many town across Flanders have train stations – even if they are only a mere pause on the track next to a farmer’s chicken coop. You can train or drive to Limburg in a couple of hours from anywhere else in Flanders.
This week we begin a three-part series on biking in the province’s most alluring areas – sure to arouse wanderlust in even those who might be inclined to say: “Limburg… isn’t that in the Netherlands?”
We begin with the enticing fruitfietsroutes (fruit cycling routes) of Haspengouw. As we recently reported, the Haspengouw region in southern Limburg attracts loads of national and international tourists in the spring with its plethora of flowering fruit trees. But when the blossoms fade and spring turns to summer, this fertile region has as much to offer. Harvest time in Belgium’s biggest fruit-producing region lasts from June through October and includes special events that feature sumptuous strawberries, cherries, pears and apples.
The Haspengouw Fruitfietsroutes map (for purchase on the Limburg tourism website) was designed to highlight the fruit trees that are concentrated in this area during the blooming and harvest seasons. Cyclists of any ability can enjoy the fruitfietsroutes as there are six that range from 20 to 58 kilometres.
I picked the moderate “loop 2” (35 km), which begins in the centre of the Sint-Truiden, a lovely little city with a population of about 39,000 in the southwest of the province. Sint-Truiden grew up around an abbey established by St Trudo in the seventh century. The town boasts two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the town hall, with its 17th-century belfry and the béguinage of Sint-Agnes.
The market square of Sint-Truiden (where you’ll find the tourist office) is one of the largest in Belgium (second to Sint-Niklaas). The historic square is stunning, but bikers beware: cars and parking are allowed so it can be incredibly hectic.
Loop 2 offers up some striking scenery, from tree-lined paths to idyllic villages and farms. One exceptional feature of this ride is that it’s mostly paved and relatively car-free.
I chose to reverse the suggested route so that I could have a picnic around the halfway point and then a brewery stop as a reward near the end. To follow the same course, start at cycle route 135, near the Sint-Truiden town square, and head west towards Wilderen (follow bike routes 188, 187, 358). This is a particularly pretty portion of the ride, with an abundance of orchards and green.
Next comes routes 186 and 359. Here, the scenery along the trail starts to transition from trees to farmland, with orchards in the distance. On the way to 183, you pass through the little town of Gingelom and by its 19th-century castle.
Just past Gingelom, you’ll find a picnic spot on the left. It’s a perfect stopping point at about 20 km into the ride. If the one and only table is occupied when you arrive, you’ll be glad you planned ahead and packed that picnic blanket, along with your picnic.
Bike onward to cycle route 182. On the way, you pass through Borlo, where you’ll find Het Pachthof, a bed and breakfast you can’t miss since it features massive remnants of the Second World War – a Patton tank and a helicopter – right out front. Here you’ll also find a war museum dedicated to the winter of 1944-45, when American soldiers came to Borlo to rest during the bloody Battle of the Bulge.
The route then takes you north where orchards abound once again. On the way to junction 184, you’ll pass Muzien and the starting point for a fruitwandeling (fruit walk). Next up is junction 185, but if you are a beer fan, you’d be a fool not to stop in Kerkom bij Sint-Truiden for an alfresco Bink beer at the Kerkom Brewery.
“Bink” is the nickname of the townspeople of Sint- Truiden. It means, “a real guy, rough but friendly,” according to Dieter Clerinx of the Sint-Truiden tourist office.
Now you are in the home stretch with only about 7.5 km to go. Follow 185 to 134 then finally 135 again to return to the starting point.
www.oogstfeesten-haspengouw.be
Pit Stops
What’s a bike ride without refreshments? Lucky for us, the Haspengouw fruitfietsroutes map points out picnic spots and cafes along the way. It even includes a bunch of coupons redeemable at local eateries. I cashed in one of mine for some free cheese to go along with my Bink beer at the Kerkom Brewery. There are several beers to choose from, including the Bloesem Bink and Kerkomse Tripel. The former is made with honey and Vrolingen pear syrup and the latter features a very satisfying level of bitterness that will thrill hopheads.
Feet and wheels
Cycling isn’t the only way to see the picturesque Haspengouw region. There are four designated walks and two driving routes designed especially for the blossom and the harvest seasons. You can even rent a Vespa to ride around the countryside or sign up for a vintage Volkswagen bus tour. The Sint-Truiden tourist office can tell you what’s on at any given time, like harvest festivals and pick-your-own fruit days. Grote Markt 44
www.toerisme-sint-truiden.be
