Living in the past

Moreover, this attractive town in Limburg boasts its antiquity. Streets have names like Caesarlaan and Pliniuswal. A car park is called Praetorium. So you don’t need a guide book to tell you that Tongeren dates back to the time of Christ and that it takes great pride in its connections to the Romans.

Until, that is, you enter the market square, when you begin to have doubts. Here there is no bust of a Roman Emperor or legionnaire. Instead, there’s a three-metre bronze statue of a wild-eyed warrior, who looks like something out of World Wrestling’s Hall of Fame. His long hair billows in the wind. He wields an axe. Tucked into his belt is a vicious sword. He sports a rippling six-pack and a Germanic moustache.
This is no citizen of Rome, but the legendary Gallic chieftain Ambiorix. In the winter of 54-53 BC, Ambiorix led his tribe, the Eburones, to a resounding victory over one of Julius Caesar’s legions. Clearly, Tongeren is delighted with its history, no matter who wrote it.

Still, while recognising Ambiorix’s noble efforts, Tongeren gives pride of place to the Romans. It’s to be expected – without them, the town wouldn’t exist. Arriving in this fertile part of Belgica, they put down roots at a place they called Atuatuca Tungrorum. Ambiorix rose up and enjoyed his moment of glory, but the Romans weren’t going to be driven away by a six-pack with an axe. They fought back, the Eburones were wiped out, and Ambiorix fled.

Thanks to its strategic position at the junction of a number of important Roman roads, Atuatuca Tungrorum grew into one of the largest military and administrative towns in northern Gaul. In mediaeval times, churches, monasteries and a begijnhof (beguinage) were added. Later it was appointed the judicial capital of Limburg.

Checking it all out

A pleasant way to explore Tongeren is via the “Ambiorix route”. This city walk of 4.5 kilometres takes you to all the interesting sites with the help of a folder from the tourist office in Dutch, French and German. (English version coming up later this year.) Your kids might be interested in the Ambiorix tourist train; from 1 April, it runs regularly past the key attractions on a 45-minute ride.

Dominating the town (aside from Ambiorix) is the Basilica of Our Lady, with its 64-metre high bell tower. Constructed between 1240 and 1544, it is one of the finest religious buildings in Flanders. Of course, as it’s located in the oldest town in Belgium, it might be expected that its Christian heritage goes back much further than the 13th century. It does. Archaeological discoveries prove that a church existed here as early as the fifth century. It was established by Saint Servatius, Bishop of Tongeren, who presided over one of the earliest dioceses in the Low Countries. His church would have been the first one north of the Alps to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Hence Tongeren is also known as the cradle of Christianity in northern Europe.

The basilica’s treasury is one of the richest collections of church art in Belgium, including objects of inestimable value from the Merovingian period (fifth to eighth centuries). The most prized possession is a delicate walnut statue of the Virgin Mary and Child from 1479 that is paraded through the streets every seven years (see sidebar).

Also valuable are a 16th-century retable (or screen) depicting scenes from Mary’s life, a vast array of reliquaries and an 11th-century portrayal of the crucifixion, notable in that Christ is depicted as still alive; his eyes are open.

“The basilica only displays one-third of all the town’s treasures,” says Stephane Nijssen of Tourism Tongeren. “Due to lack of space and unsuitable environmental conditions, the rest is in storage. But the basilica’s Roman cloisters are being renovated and the treasury expanded, so we’ll be able to display all of Tongeren’s religious treasures.”
One of the most picturesque parts of Tongeren is undoubtedly the beguinage. Founded in the mid-13th century, it’s one of the oldest in Flanders and is particularly charming because it’s not enclosed, like many other beguinages. The open plan extends over a number of narrow streets. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, it’s like discovering a village within a city.

Fresh food, old antiques

If you have been following the Ambiorix city walk, by the time you reach the beguinage you may have worked up an appetite. The quaint Herberg De Pelgrim in Brouwersstraat, which dates back to 1632, offers good value pasta, salads and traditional Flemish dishes.

If antiques set you buzzing, then Tongeren on any Sunday morning is the place to be. For the past 35 years, its weekly antique market – the biggest in Belgium – has attracted dealers and enthusiasts in the thousands. It’s easy to see why. The town’s streets are packed with 350 stalls and no fewer than 24 antique shops, all of which open their doors on Sunday mornings.
Professional antique dealers flock here from all over Belgium, as well as from the Netherlands, France and Germany. Coaches regularly arrive from the UK (thanks partly to coverage on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow). Their sharp eyes and knowing glances flick over clocks, porcelain, furniture, chandeliers, silverware, paintings and baubles. To compete with them, you’ll have to set your alarm clock. “The keenest treasure hunters start at 5.00,” says Nijssen. “If it’s still dark, they simply get out their torches.”

online
www.tongeren.be  Â

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It’s your lucky year

In a country renowned for its religious processions, to promote Tongeren’s Kroningsfeesten as the grandest could be considered over-hyped marketing. However, statistics suggest it might just be true. This week-long religious event in July continues 1,600 years of tradition, involves 3,000 volunteers (one in 10 of Tongeren’s population) and attracts 700,000 visitors. It includes processions and evening performances that focus on the town’s venerated 15th-century statue of the Virgin Mary. It only happens every seven years, and this is one of them.

online
www.kroningsfeesten.be Â

The new Gallo-Roman Museum

In just 10 years, annual visitor numbers to Tongeren’s Gallo-Roman Museum rocketed from 20,000 to 150,000. The existing building simply could not cope. A six-year building project finishes in May with the opening of a brand new museum. Expect bold themes, state-of-the-art multimedia, a full educational programme, dynamic workshops and unusual events.

online
www.galloromeinsmuseum.be