Bite - b’artiste

My partner and I visit early on a weekday evening with growling tummies and rather high expectations of the food. We’re immediately treated to fresh prawn crackers with a shrimp dipping sauce to go with our freshly squeezed lemonade “aperitif ”. Soon after, an unexpected teaser arrives: white asparagus panna cotta, a creamy twist on the seasonal vegetable.

We’re glad to see a straightforward menu, with just a few options but very appetising ones indeed. Passing up favourite starters like vitello tonnato and aged Mangalica ham, we opt for mackerel with cucumber and granny smith and fried nobashi prawns. The prawns are fat and juicy, covered in panko and lightly fried. Their dipping sauce, a tasty mixture of hot chilli, green onion and coriander, is missing a bit of acidity. Across from me, the mackerel is disappearing quickly between approving sounds as my partner enjoys every last bite. The fish itself is lightly smoked and marinated to bring out its nice briny flavour and silky-smooth texture. Beautifully arranged around the dish are scoops of foam and ice cream with hints of tangy apple and refreshing cucumber.

Waiting for our mains to arrive is effortless, tided over as we are with a loaf of still-warm, freshly baked bread and clotted cream. In the meantime we find out that b’artiste has been around for almost six years now, according to owner Josefien Joye. Her husband, Stijn Lanssens, runs the kitchen.

Overshadowed by the fantastic first dishes, our mains are less rave-worthy. Baked sea bream is given a little Spanish flair with a medley of sautéed bell peppers, artichokes, squid and chorizo. The underlying aubergine puree is too sweet and the whole dish is swimming in oil. My steak, meanwhile, may be a fancy cut of prime Australian Hereford beef, well cooked and with nice flavour, but all in all it’s nothing out of the ordinary. The side of pepper sauce is so spicy I can only handle a couple of spoonfuls. Fortunately the dish comes with a pile of seasonal veg, including green beans, carrots and courgette, fries and homemade mayo. And my glass of Spanish house red is soft and well-balanced.

We finish off on a high note with a gorgeous dessert of raspberries with coulis, mascarpone sorbet, lime gel, yoghurt and cookie crumble. It’s a delight to dabble in the cool, creamy, crunchy textures and sweet, sour, fruity flavours.

We realise as we pay the €93 bill that a menu would have made more sense economically, at €35 for three courses. But ordering à la carte is much more fun.

www.bartiste.be

Zuidstraat 50, Roeselare; 051.251.241
11.45-14.00 & 18.30-22.00 Tue, Thurs & Fri; 11.45-14.00 Wed; 18.30-22.00 Sat
Mains: €18-30
Trendy bistro with fresh and surprising dishes inspired by world cuisine