Bite - Brasserie Nieuwpoort
It’s the hottest day of the year so far, and my partner and I are on our way to sniff up the fresh sea breeze at the coast. But we don’t have to go all the way to the beach for that. Most Flemish coastal resort towns have a lesser-known old town just a short way inland. Nieuwpoort is one of them, and its historic market square is about as charming as they come.
****
On one corner is Brasserie Nieuwpoort, its bustling terrace filled with trendy lounge chairs and parasols. It’s packed with all types of people: young and old, fancy and casual, with or without kids. We take our reserved seat on a cushiony bench and leaf through the menu, which is actually a pretty snazzy magazine.
I’ve been to quite a few brasseries in Flanders, but never one this stylish. Everything has been considered down to the last detail, from the gorgeous glazed faience bar and serene interior to the sprig of fresh rosemary in my partner’s gin and tonic. My virgin mojito is properly mixed to sweet-sour perfection with crushed ice, sugar and tangy lime, then prettily garnished with mint leaves and thin slices of granny smith apple. With our aperitifs come teasers of smoked salmon mousse.
With my mind already set on croquettes, a traditional coastal delicacy, I can’t help but order the cheese croquettes as a starter, followed by a main of shrimp croquettes. My partner is a little more adventurous and orders the North Sea fish soup starter and plaice for the main, a popular flat fish which is fully in season right now.
I may have overdone it on the double order of fried goodies, but my cheese croquettes are the best I’ve ever tasted – their light and crispy outer crust gives way to a soft, battered layer and oozing centre filled with Keiems Bloempje, a lush mild cheese from nearby Diksmuide. The croquettes come with a wedge of lemon to help cut the richness, a little sharp shaved parmesan and a pile of delicate fried parsley.
My partner’s soup, meanwhile, is a mouth-watering bouillabaisse of mussels, cockles and chunks of white fish floating in olive oil, tomatoes and saffron and served with spicy rouille, grated cheese for melting and a couple of thick, oil-drenched croutons.
He’s equally pleased with his main, too, which features an enormous fillet of plaice, very simply pan-fried and drizzled with nutty beurre noisette, or browned butter. The incredibly soft white flesh of the fish melts on the tongue and pairs up nicely with the side of homemade tartar sauce, crisp salad and hand-cut fries.
I manage to devour two more good-sized croquettes, this time stuffed with plump North Sea shrimp in a creamy, gooey sauce. A tart and refreshing Rodenbach beer proves yet again to be the ideal companion to this classic dish.
For dessert, I’m forced to pass up things like ice cream, crème brûlée and a West Flemish cheese platter, opting instead for a simple cappuccino (ok, make that a “Belgian cappuccino” – more whipped cream than coffee), and the bill please. It comes to a fair €85: on the expensive side for a brasserie, but then, this isn’t your average brasserie, not by far.
Marktplein 19, Nieuwpoort; 058.23.15.32
9.30-22.00, daily
Mains: €10-30
Refined brasserie with an excellent selection of fresh fish and seafood dishes
About the author
Beer & Food Writer
