Bite: Vol-au-vent

Summary

Vol-au-vent is a real Flemish classic and about as rich and heavy as dishes come

Robyn Boyle explores the world of Flemish cuisine

As if a thick, creamy sauce with chicken chunks, meatballs and mushrooms wasn’t enough, vol-au-vent stuffs all of that into a light puff pastry. While the French name literally means “windblown” and brings to mind something dainty and weightless, vol-au-vent is about as rich and heavy as dishes come. It’s a real Flemish classic, and grandmothers across the region have been perfecting their recipes for it for years. Here’s one of my favourites, though it’s just one of many ways to whip up this oh-so-perfect dish guaranteed to keep you warm during the (long) winter months.

Ingredients (for four)

a whole chicken of about 1 kg
200g minced beef/pork
4 pre-made puff pastries
200g mushrooms
2 carrots
2 onions
2 large leeks
120g butter (for the sauce) + a pat of butter
150g flour
juice of 1/2 lemon
2 eggs
100ml cream
salt and pepper
a few sprigs of thyme and bay leaves
breadcrumbs
fresh parsley (optional)

Chicken stock

Roughly chop the carrots, onions and leeks and toss them into a large pot with the entire chicken, thyme sprigs and a couple of bay leaves. Add about 2 litres of water to cover and allow to cook on a medium heat for at least two hours, or until the meat falls off the bones. Remove the chicken and set aside to cool. Strain the stock to remove all the vegetables and allow it to further reduce to 1 litre.

Meatballs

Use your hands to mix the minced meat and eggs with enough bread crumbs to keep meatballs intact. Season with salt and pepper, and then roll the meat mixture into small balls. Cook the balls for a few minutes in the strained stock over a medium heat. 

Meanwhile, cut the mushrooms into quarters. Melt the butter in a pan and cook the mushrooms until soft. Set aside. Carefully pick all the meat from the chicken carcass and shred into small pieces.

Sauce

Make a roux for the sauce using the melted butter and flour. Cook over a medium heat, whisking vigorously. Slowly pour in the chicken stock while continuing to whisk into a thick but fluid sauce. Bind with cream until you reach the desired consistency. Add the mushrooms, chicken and meatballs to the sauce. Sprinkle in some fresh lemon juice, mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Pastry

Gently hollow out the puff pastries with a knife, but keep the top. Warm them in the oven until golden brown and slightly crispy. Fill with the creamy sauce until they overflow a little, and then replace the top. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley, if desired. Vol-au -vent goes best with homemade fries and mayo. 

Bite: Vol-au-vent

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